Thursday 28 March 2019

Weaver's Paradise in Bengal


I had been to Shantipur last year somewhere in February to meet the grieving family after I lost my cousin brother. I wanted to write a blog then about the wonderful people we met that day, who were complete strangers and went out of the way to find my cousin’s house for us. My state of mind did not permit, perhaps.
We did not have his recent address. The only thing we told people there, near the station was his name and where he came from – And that he is no more. The sensitivity and priority people showed to this incident and their eagerness to assist because we traveled over 90 kms to meet the family - restores faith in humanity.
Universe conspires. Human’s inherent good nature was what we experienced that day.
That day, we had reached Shantipur at 1:30 PM and finally met the family in the evening around 4 PM. Everyone we spoke to - my cousin's old house neighbors, his land lord where he lived before, his friend who he chatted with occasionally, even the auto rickshaw owners, ladies who were having their afternoon walk after lunch – each one of them went out of the way to assist us, made calls from their own phones to their contacts to provide us more details about the place where we could possibly find his house. The auto guy waited for us to bring us back safely to the station all for just INR 200.
I wanted to visit Shantipur during happier times. So after visiting Habibpur ISKCON last Saturday, we took a train to Shantipur which is just two stations away.
As we waited for the train, I spoke to a lady who happened to be a weaver. We spoke for quite some time, exchanged names, phone numbers and it was great to hear real stories from the horse’s mouth – how they get paid, how sarees are designed, how materials are supplied to them, how the finished products get delivered, the time they take to complete one saree and the entire nine yards of getting a saree done.
After we reached Shantipur, we took a Toto (INR 20) to the weaver’s home. For the first time in my life, I will be buying sarees straight from the weaver.

The weaver’s whole family is involved in business – selling, billing, packing, folding, drying, taking calls, delivering material to waiting customers in the station and at home. One boy was there for vacation and even he was found looking for sarees to show customers and assist the family – Absolute simpletons making an honest living.


It was heart wrenching to see a couple dry the sarees in that scorching heat – how hard they work for each Saree. I will not have the heart to bargain after that, but frankly I had already paid for my collection by then and except for three costly Sarees for which some discount was given, I paid for the rest exactly what the seller asked for. I did not waste a minute negotiating there. 
I managed a saree Boutique in Bangalore for over five and half years - About Sarees, I am never out of practice. I am very much aware about the trends and I was absolutely sure I was getting a fairly good deal. Seeking any more discount would reflect pure petty mindedness - squeezing the weaver's profit to nothing. 
We picked 17 sarees and it was an amazing collection – As it was for a friend, I am unable to upload those images here.

We told the young lad who was showing us the collection several times to go and have his lunch because he looked tired doing this since morning – Customers first attitude. It sent us to a guilt trip, so we wrapped our purchase as fast as we could.
I was supposed to visit another supplier that day but opted not to as we will not be able to carry any more stuff.
The only challenge was getting a Toto outside the weaver’s home to reach Shantipur Station. The weaver’s family tried to call a Toto driver they knew however he wasn’t in the vicinity of their residence. We had to walk through the village for roughly fifteen minutes before we got a Magic Van (INR 10)
As we walked, on the way we asked a young girl where we can get Toto, she immediately was ready to take her cycle out and go with us to show the road till the Toto stand. Did I not tell you this before? This place is full of awesome people.
The common sound that you get to hear as you walk the lanes in Shantipur, particularly the area where we were walking, is the constant sound of clicking – weavers at work on their machines. Next time I go there, I am going to click one such weaver in action.
Others probably notice the bustling town of Shantipur in Nadia district of West Bengal, India – What my traveler mind noticed is the predictable routine of their lives – day in day out – where life, living and livelihood are kind of blurred.
Shantipur is just 92 kilometers from Sealdah. Both Shantipur and Fulia are popular, not as tourist spots, but for Bengal Hand loom saree weaving centers- quite famous not just in Bengal, but all over India.
The hand looms here typically weave Shantipur, Tangail, soft jamdaani and yarns can be cotton, silk or tussar. The lady I was speaking to, who called herself Padma was telling me, there is one type of thread that cost INR 5000 per kilogram.
This trip to Shantipur was not at all about shopping or purchase or Sarees - It was just to experience the warmth of people again. 

Saturday 23 March 2019

Hare Krishna Hare Krishna


Many of my friends are travelers who are associated with different travel groups and one of them even coordinates tours across India, mostly Kashmir.

Early March, one of them suggested Habibpur to visit ISKCON. It is roughly five hours (to and fro) trip covering over 160 kms in a day. I am always game for one day tours.

Just that I did not want to spend five hours just for one spot - Habibpur ISKCON was inaugurated in 2010. I had been to ISKCON in  Mayapur and in Bangalore.

Early last month, a couple of my friends in Bangalore connected with me as they were interested to launch saree collection with Bengal cotton and soft hand loom. As I had a boutique for over five and half years in Bangalore, they wanted me work on their first collection.

Now that brings Habibpur to focus again, because just the next station is Phulia, two stations away is Santipur. These places are sort of Mecca for Bengal cotton Sarees as the weavers practically sell the finished product from their homes (More on this in a separate blog)

I was not able to join my friend who suggested Habibpur. Her group will be there tomorrow and they had plans to book a room, freshen up, look around, relish the fifteen items Thaali (INR 150) - make it a whole day affair. 

Prasad coupons have to be collected in advance. I understand, there is an alternative to have the simpler version of Prasad with five or six items for INR 60/-

Shantipur local trains start from Sealdah, very early in the morning - the first one being at 4.35 AM. Every one and a half hours you have one of these locals for this station - just in case you miss one. We boarded the train that leaves Sealdah at 7.35 AM.

The idea was to cover Habibpur and then go shopping for Sarees in Shantipur. I had already spoken to two vendors and shared the collection that I wanted on Watsapp.

Train tickets (INR 20) is cheap if you consider the distance you cover.


The Habibpur story begins..

From Habibpur station, a Toto, also called Tuktuki took us to ISKCON for INR 10/- I did not explore the bus option.


The Entrance. There is another entrance close to the food counter

It is no where like Mayapur ISKCON - It does not have the separate queues for depositing shoes, bags and mobiles which was irritating the first time I went to Mayapur. In fact the inquiry stand was deserted - probably that is because we were there pretty early.


A counter to guide the tourists/ devotees



It is not so grand however has a calming effect on you, as you enter the premises.


Calm Atmosphere - Plenty of place to sit

I constantly kept comparing with other ISKCON centres and was practically relieved that you can just roam around with your belongings instead of spending considerable time in queues either for depositing and taking your stuff back.


We did not see any crowd here - Pretty thoughtful to have medical clinic within the premises

We first saw the place around before getting into the temple.


I did not click this to show the queue for Prasad
but to show the line of basil plants in the front yard 

There is a garden, a lodge, a lake with option to take a boat ride, a shop inside the temple to buy memento and a cow shed too


The Office Signboard


Inside the temple, we asked the authorities if we could click a photograph. They allowed. The only prohibition was not to click any humans with the idols. Makes perfect sense.


Outside the temple

We received charanamritam and prasad (Papaya) in the temple. We went in the early hours, so it wasn't crowded at all


Inside the temple
a) ISKCON Habibpur Main Altar
b) Sri Jagannatha Baladeva Subhadra - In the middle
c) Sri Sri Radha Madhav - Right
d) Sri Sri Gaur Nitai

Just wish we could hear some Kirtan - After all it was spring and holi just passed a couple of days back.


Hare Krisna Hare Krisna Krisna Krisna Hare Hare; Hare Ram Hare Ram Ram Ram Hare Hare
I am guessing - these will be up on those walls soon.


I enjoyed the place, however I doubt if I will want to stay there - 
Here is where you can stay if you want to. You can check the website or talk to them in advance for price and booking.


Accommodation


If I did stay it will be to see how the place looks with lights. Must be wonderful with some chanting of Hare Rama Hare Krishna in the background.


Do you see the swan boat in the lake?

You will have better company if you paid attention around - they are beautiful. Here they are, in their own world.


Are they beautiful?

It is good idea to visit this place now before the strict procedures followed in other ISKCON centers catches up here. 

As we were leaving the premises we saw a devotee get into a van with a musical instrument - probably for a chanting tour. 

That, for me, is the essence of Gaurdham

For more details, click here








Thursday 21 March 2019

Going Home For That Festival of Spring In India

I hear this phrase often these days – creating a dent in the universe. It was once part of Steve Job’s quote. Now it is everyone’s daily lingo.


Yes I understand - what it means metaphorically - is leaving our mark or creating an impact in a manner that it changes people’s lives for better.

Yesterday I told my mother I will be watching old Hindi movies today that have Holi in it, expecting Silsila or Yeh Jawani Hai Diwani kind of movies to play on TV today. I ended up watching Toilet – Ek Prem Katha.

Never mind that.

That has nothing to do with the theme of this blog or its message. I only hope by the end of the blog I have something good enough to hammer.

Watching a movie in the afternoon and playing cards with my mother after dinner is far from creating a dent.

That is so ordinary.

Turn around and see the world of success. 

How many of them can do the ordinary, like splash colors like these kids near a running tap to celebrate Spring or Holi  - the festival of spring or even watch them drenching each other with colors?



The power of ordinary which is again another catchy phrase these days is a force to reckon with - Living a life without anxieties – just a predictable routine requires a lot of hard work. Not everyone can insulate themselves from the world’s pace, FOMO syndrome to find their own solitude.

Even if they prepare a sandwich, they cannot fight the urge to click an image, write about its nine yard, an inspiring story around it and up it goes on social media to attract a few likes, a dozen comments and their day is made – Extraordinary, in their own Universe

Ok never mind that either. Let us go back to Holi -Why is this such a big deal in India? 

Holi is not just a festival of colors – it signifies the end of winter and the arrival of spring, gatherings, laughter and hopes for a good harvest.

I got one of my interns today to create a Canva design for a forthcoming Kashmir trip that a friend is organizing on 27th May this year – She is not even aware that we are working behind the scenes to promote her business online. She recently had a very bad accident and has always been digitally retarded.

I made a few calls to source Bengal Cotton and Handloom sarees for another friend who is miles away from Bengal and keen to tap the Indian market with the richness of Bengal

I coached a friend’s friend who happened to call me today regarding how to get started to establish online income.

Those were very ordinary, routine work I did today but that’s what spring stands for – new beginnings. With Bengali New Years around the corner, now is the time to make even the ordinary count long term.

The Holi celebrations in India include the religious rituals in front of the bonfire the night before Holi to destroy evil energy followed by smearing each with colors the following day. Children with water guns and water filled balloons while the seniors prepare themselves the customary drink.

If you are in a city far away from home or away on an official trip away from family - you miss out on the ordinary, the mundane,  children screaming with joy, the aroma of food being prepared, the noisy gatherings, the Rang Barse playing on the local microphone and a lot more.

So, what about creating a dent in the universe?  

You can be ambitious enough to do that only after you succeed to create a dent in your own universe instead of being slave of habits, consumed by materialism and never ending pursuit for your senses.

I have learnt to let go and brought myself to enjoy these little moments of celebrations with family, not to upload images on social media channels but to create memories to cherish for a very long time.

So are you taking that little trip in your mind, this Holi - where you want to go next? To touch the pyramids in Egypt or to touch your parents feet and smear them with color, play cricket the with boys in your lane or do laundry with your mother.

Make time for the ordinary in your trips - Being home is not about reaching a place, it is about reaching where you feel you belong.



Wednesday 20 March 2019

Alternate Travel: Blogging Inside A Mumbai Local Train


Inspiration can come from any quarter. In my case it came from an uncomfortable and a somewhat dangerous place. Blogging is no joke nor does a blog just pop out from your brains on to your keyboard. I blogged like a maniac. Hope you like my tactics that I used for blogging inside a Mumbai local train.
Image Credit: Mumbai Dream City



Blogging background

Pardeep Goyal an eminent Indian blogger in a telephone conversation told me that writing is not hard and if done each day becomes smooth and effortless.

I like to scare myself by taking on goals that I have never attempted before.
So I took up writing, while travelling everyday on Mumbai Locals!!
And inspired by the many stories of students studying inside local trains, successful sports persons who took the train to reach their coaching destinations, IAS and CAT aspirants cracking the exams!
Why Mumbai locals?

1. Predictability takes away stress

Mumbai Suburban - one of the best Indian ingenious and autonomously running institution

Lot of respect for its punctuality, something we Indians are not known for.

Compare this to my commute in Bangalore in my car where I was at the mercy of traffic and some government departments road digging fetishes.
2. Comfort and speed

Stated fact that trains cut away from traffic, move really fast, and your posture is stable to write (and also play candy crush).

3. Warm people

People in Mumbai are nothing I have met having traveled almost all the country. They are warm, polite and mind their own business. Huge advantage when you are trying to do something like writing.

4. Focus

When you see everyone around either studying, reading or pursuing something, you get busy yourself. You are the average of the 300 people you hang out with!

5. Green warrior

I don’t burn fuel which I did in my previous avatar at Bangalore, taking my car to work each day for 32 kms, for more than a decade.

I feel happy that I am not a contributor to the traffic mess and pollution outside.
6. Cheapest

Yes it helps when your daily commute works out to under 10 rupees a day! That’s real cold cash saved.

How to start blogging inside Mumbai Locals

1. Buffer of 30 minutes

Writing needs serious focus and energy. Conserve it by keeping 30 minutes for any travel as buffer. I don’t have to run to catch a train.

This preserves my energy levels and maintains my equilibrium.
Keeping a buffer means, you get to pick trains which aren’t crowded and easy to alight and board.
Never underestimate the planning process.
2. Your Tools

Amazon music, Google Drive, Google Calendar, a good mobile internet, a good smartphone, good headphones, fast thumbs and a deadline to finish.

You need a good phone because sometimes all you will have is a single thumb. So the gesture flow feature should work well when typing. I think iPads or tabs would be little inconvenient to carry in Locals.
Yes, not to forget - have a phone with a good battery life
3. Karma works

I love standing in a good place free from the slug fest and the hustling.

Fun fact: a seat to sit is premium commodity and a thing to die for, literally.
So I offer my seat to people who are standing. Someday when I’m tired and need to focus on some serious ideation, I get offered a seat out of nowhere. Karma really works!
4. Discipline

Have a rigor and a personal goal each day to write, compile ideas and give shape to your blog.

My total travel time in a day is 3 hours. I believe it’s enough to push 2 blogs out of my weekly goals.
In closing, let’s do something every day till it becomes a muscle memory. Just like the way I read 84 books in 2016 because I was committed to the goal.
Discipline is a promise to your goal that you would meet it for sure.
If I have to attribute a reason for my success, I would hand out over to my wife for her unconditional love and Indian railways for relentlessly serving this city.
This was originally published here and has been added to this site with permission from the author.
Author Profile: Karmesh Ghosh is a startup enthusiast. As an independent consultant for marketing, sales and development strategies, he supports startups and SMEs to achieve their business outcomes. To know more click here

Wednesday 6 March 2019

সেই অরণ্যে, যেখানে সুন্দরীর বাস.....

একটা সুন্দর ও মনোরম অক্টোবরের সকাল, দিনটা ছিল মহাসপ্তমী।
সকাল সাড়ে সাতটা নাগাদ আমরা পৌছলাম ৪,টোটে লেনে।আমাদের ভ্রমণ উপদেষ্টা'ট্যুর দ্য সুন্দরবনস' ই এই জায়গাটির পরামর্শ দিয়েছিলেন ২দিন ১ রাত্রি ম্যানগ্রোভ ফরেস্ট,  সুন্দরবন ট্রিপের জন্য।
চেক বুকিং,  পেমেন্ট এবং বাকি টাকা জমা দেওয়ার সমস্ত নিয়মকানুন উপদেষ্টা করেছিলেন। এরপর দারুণ  গরমাগরম লিকার আদা চা খাওয়া হয়েছিল।তারপর সেখান থেকে কিছু মিটার দূরে পার্কিং থেকে  টেম্পো ট্রাভেলার বুক করে নিতে বলা হল আমাদের।

আমাদের অন্যান্য সহযাত্রীদের মধ্যে ছিল এক জোড়া পরিবার এবং  কিছু পর্যটক যারা ম্যাঞ্চেস্টার এবং ফ্রান্স থেকে এসেছিলেন। কিছু দূরেই অফিস থেকে আমাদের গাইড এম.জে আমাদের সাথে যোগ দিলেন।

সকাল ৮.২০ নাগাদ রেড রোড এবং মাও ফ্লাইওভার পেরিয়ে কলকাতা ছাড়লাম।

  টেম্পোতে টোটে লেনের ব্যাকপ্যাকারস অফিসে তৈরী টাটকা ভেজ স্যান্ডউইচ এবং কলা পরিবেশন করা হল আমাদের।

টানা তিন ঘন্টা চলার পর আমরা শেষ প্রান্তএ পৌছালাম। যেটা আমি বলতে চাইছি সেটা হল গাড়ির রাস্তা এখানেই শেষ, এই জায়গাটির নাম হল গাদখালি। এখান থেকে আমরা একটা ফেরী নিলাম যেটা আমাদের পৌছে দিল সাতজেলিয়া গ্রামে আমাদের ইকো রিসর্টে।

 মাটির কটেজ গুলো আমাদের দেখানোর পর আমরা এক ঘন্টা সময় পেলাম পরিস্কার পরিচ্ছন্ন হবার জন্য  এবং তারপর আমরা মধ্যাহ্ন ভোজন সারলাম। খাবার গুলো রান্না করেছিলেন রিসর্টে কর্মরত গ্রামেরই এক মহিলা।খাবার গুলো  ছিল অসাধারণ এবং সুস্বাদু, বাড়ির রান্নার আস্বাদ ছিল তাতে। রান্নাগুলোতে ঝালের পরিমাণ খুব কম ছিল যাতে আমাদের সুবিধেই হয়েছিল।



দুপুরের খাবারের পর আমরা পায়ে হেটে  সাতজেলিয়া গ্রাম টা ঘুরে দেখতে গেলাম।এটি অত্যন্ত পরিস্কার পরিচ্ছন্ন একটি গ্রাম এবং গ্রামের লোকগুলো খুব মিশুকে এবং উপকারী।
নোনা জল জাতে গ্রামে ঢুকে শস্য নষ্ট এবং বন্যা তৈরী করে ঘর বাড়ি নষ্ট না করতে পারে তার জন্য গ্রামবাসী রা একটা বাঁধ তৈরী করেছেন, সেটাও আমরা পায়ে হেটে দেখলাম। ভাটার কারনে সুন্দরী( হেরিটিয়েরা লিট্টোরালিস ) গাছ গুলির শ্বাসমূল গুলো স্পষ্ট দেখা যাচ্ছিল।



একটা হাতে টানা নৌকা আমাদের জন্য ঘাটে অপেক্ষা করছিল। হেটে বেড়ানোর পর কয়েক ঘন্টা কাটানোর জন্য আমরা ওই নৌকা তে উঠে পড়লাম।ঘুরে দেখলাম স্থির নদীটি।আমাকে আপনাদের কল্পনার উপরই ছেড়ে দিতে দিন যে সন্ধ্যের আলোতে  কেমন লাগবে এই জায়গাটি দেখতে। হ্যা, আপনারা ঠিকই বুঝছেন, শব্দ দিয়ে এই মূহুর্তকে বর্ণনা করা যায় না। 


এই জায়গাটাটিতে নৌকা বা পর্যটক দের খুব একটা ভিড় নেই।এই জায়গাটি ভীষণ শান্তি দেয়।একইসাথে মনে হবে যেন সম্পূর্ণ জায়গাটির আপনার।




প্রায় দুঘণ্টা হাতে টানা নৌকা তে চড়ে আমরা আমাদের রিসর্টে ফিরলাম। এসে গরমাগরম বেগুনি আর আদা চা খেলাম।

এরপরে যা ঘটল তা হল সেইদিনের আসল চমক। হ্যারিকেন বাতিতে ঘেরা এক ছোট্ট 'ছাউনি' তে গ্রামবাসীরা লোকসংগীত পরিবেশন করলেন।প্রায় দুঘণ্টা এই সংগীত শোনার পর আমাদের রাতের খাবারের সময় হয়ে গেছিল।


যদিও রাত্রে হাতে টানা নৌকাতে একটা সাফারির আয়োজন করা হয়েছিল তবুও আমরা আর যাইনি। কারণ একটা লম্বা দিনের ক্লান্তি ছিল আর তার উপর পরের দিন সকাল ৬ টার সময় আমাদের আবার যাত্রা শুরু করতে হত। আমাদের গ্রুপ থেকে কিছু পর্যটক চেয়েছিলেন রাতের ওই সাফারির অভিজ্ঞতা করতে। তারা ফিরেছিলেন রাত্রি ১০.৩০ এর সময়।তাই আমি ভাবলাম যে এটা করাই যেত।  আমাদের জন্য ওই সংগীত ও রাতের খাবারই আমাদের উপর শেষ দীর্ঘ প্রভাব ফেলেছিল।

পরদিন সকালে তাড়াতাড়ি স্নান সেরে আমরা ৬ টার সময় সবাই একত্রিত হলাম। তারপর ফুটন্ত চা খেয়ে সবাই ফেরী তে উঠে পড়লাম, যা আগামী ১২ ঘন্টার জন্য আমাদের বাসস্থান হতে চলেছে। নৌকাগুলিতে প্রাথমিক শৌচাগার এর ব্যবস্থা ছিল। আশা করি এই ব্যবস্থা টা আমাদের নৌকাভ্রমণ এর সময় নিয়ে আপনাদের মনে যে সংশয় এর তৈরী করেছিল তার উত্তর দিল।


ফেরী রওনা দিল এবং কিছুদূর গিয়ে এক দ্বীপ থেকে আমাদের জন্য কিছু জিনস ও এবং রাঁধুনিদের নৌকাতে তুলে নিল এবং তারপর শুরু হল আমাদের সেই দিনের যাত্রা। নৌকাতেই আমাদের প্রাতঃরাশ পরিবেশন  করা হল।


একজন সরকার নিযুক্ত গাইড  সজনেখালি থেকে আমাদের ফেরীতে উঠলেন। তিনি ওই গোটা দিনের জন্য এম.যে র সাথে আমাদের গাইড  হলেন।সরকার নিযুক্ত নির্দেশক প্রতিটি ফেরী তে থাকা আবশ্যক।আবার বিদেশী পর্যটক দের জন্য অনুমতি লাগে। যা এম.যে সুরক্ষিত করেছিলেন আমাদের সাথে যে বিদেশী পর্যটক ছিলেন তাদের জন্য।



নৌকাটি বাঁক দিয়ে গভীর সুন্দরবনে প্রবেশ করল এবং আমাদের নিয়ে গেল জনশূন্য সংরক্ষিত বনে।আমরা অনেক বন্যপ্রানী দেখতে পেলাম- পাখি,মনিটর টিকটিকি এবং কুমির।

হ্যা- মাটিতে রয়্যাল বেংগল টাইগারের থাবার টাটকা দাগও দেখতে পেলাম।



দুপুরের খাবার  নৌকাতেই পরিবেশন করা হয়েছিল।আমরা দুটো ওয়াচ টাওয়ারে নেমেছিলাম দ্বীপগুলির আশপাশ টা( নিয়ন্ত্রিত  এলাকা) ঘুরে দেখার জন্য। দশ ফুটের রাস্তা নির্দিষ্ট আছে ঘুরে দেখার জন্য।

সরকার নিযুক্ত নির্দেশক টি খুব উপকারী ও মিশুকে ছিলেন।



কিছু তথ্য :

সুন্দরবন হল বিশ্বের সবচেয়ে বড় ম্যানগ্রোভ অরণ্য। এটির ৬০% আছে বাংলাদেশে এবং ৪০% ভারতে,  ভারতে এটির প্রায় ৪০০০  বর্গ কিলোমিটার আছে । 

ভারতে মোট দ্বীপ এর সংখ্যা ১০০ এরও বেশী এবং এই সকল দ্বীপ এর ৫০%-৬০% দ্বীপে মানুষ বসবাস করে।


শেষ পরিসংখ্যা অনুযায়ী রয়্যাল বেংগল টাইগারের সংখ্যা ছিল ১০৬( বাঘের বাচ্চা সমেত) তারা স্বাধীন ভাবে ভারত ও বাংলাদেশ প্রান্তে ঘুরে বেড়ায়, তাই নির্দিষ্ট সংখ্যাটি বলা কঠিন।

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