How Many Of Us Travel Responsibly?

How many of you agree that there is something more important than finalizing the destination, managing leaves, getting bookings done – It is who you want to travel with.

I have one or two friends with whom I am comfortable doing local city tours and another one from a different has always been perfect for short trips (We did Goa, Madikere and Kerala together). However I have many more trips in mind for which these do not quite fit the bill – because I want to stay in a place for 2/3 weeks exploring a social cause or absorbing local culture and not just covering saturated tourist spots. To be able to do that, none of my previous travel partners can commit as they have jobs, family and other priorities to cater to

So on 23^rd November 2019, when there was a travel group meeting happening, I joined with some anticipation to find like minded travelers who might be keen to do local-culture feel trips. I was also keen to see the venue Mohur Kunj, just opposite Rabindra Sadan

A local train to Sealdah (INR 10) and then a bus (INR 7) to a friend's office in Park Street for a quick chat and then I boarded a bus to the travel meet menu  (INR 7) . Their agenda was to fix future tours based on everyone's interest, leave availability, budget and will. I had my own agenda - find like minded travelers and connect post travel meet.

Within the first five minutes I could figure, I cannot possibly travel with anyone there because their inclination was mostly to plan tours based on how many days leave, one can manage. 

I am a budget traveler, environmentalist, love to blog, write travel stories, capture moments not just as images but in words - I did not hear anyone mention any of these even once. The number of photographs that were clicked in the travel meet itself in a dozen cameras, hugely hinted at what I am supposed to expect in trips - A sharp streak of self obsession.

I am inclined towards responsible tourism, not travel by car in the night to save accommodation costs - That is seriously not my kind of travel. 

I like to explore places like a local person, leisurely, peacefully, simply without any urgency - make my travel notes (including costs, timings, anecdote, trivia of the place), find a story, capture an image that adds value to that story, weave moments - minute by minute. I have no tendency to cover every tourist spot. Why do I need to behave as if there is no tomorrow? We can always revisit. The anxiety of making the most of one visit is truly tiring. 

Mohur Kunj, Opposite Rabindra Sadan

Fortunately, there was an exhibition in progress organized by Jungle Bhavan and after some time there was a full fledged cultural program. I explore the stalls, picked a neck piece from a Terrakota shop and only after that joined the travel meet.

Handmade Jewelry

Now, why did I pick the accessory? That is how we appreciate craft, hand made jewelry, support one's livelihood, a home and create a moment for yourself, worth remembering wherever you go - My travels are mostly purpose driven.

Organized by Jungle Bhaban

Our team manages a travel page in Face Book and a twitter handle called Chalte Chalte India. The thought is basically to promote the idea of traveling responsibly in India, particularly Kolkata as if you belong here and want to see this city grow.

Why Do You Need To Know About This Station In Kolkata?

If you want to explore Kolkata and its suburbs as a budget traveler this station plays a major part in intercity connectivity in this part of India. Most people know only about Howrah station which is undoubtedly an important gateway to the city

How many trains ply here, how many train trips are handled here all day long, what kind of infrastructure this station has – Upper Class Waiting Room recently commissioned, Wifi, Executive lounge – You will find tons of information online regarding these.

To understand why Sealdah is the heart of Kolkata travel, you need insights from those who travel on a daily basis.

I was barely fifteen when I started traveling by local train to go to college in Dumdum (That’s right, there is a station too by that name, not just the Airport) in North Kolkata. After college for ten long years I used the local train to get to work to different parts of Kolkata – Park Street, Poddopukur, Gariahat, Salt Lake – That’s again a hint regarding how many times I switched jobs.

Most of my socializing then during the initial days of my career was in train. After 15 long years in Bangalore, I relocate back to Kolkata and I miss the daily travel journey. Now I mostly work from home and interact with stakeholders and team through mails, SKYPE and ZOOM calls 

I go to the city once a month and Sealdah still has that sweet charm of yester years. So a few days back I had some work in the city, had to buy some stuff, meet a friend to give her birthday gift and finally on my way back, catch up with another friend in Sealdah station – basically return together.

I waited for more than an hour and I enjoyed every bit of it. My mother had to attend a neighbor’s invite for a spiritual gathering, so I was in no rush to return home.

The stalls, the crowd, the busyness, the speed – nothing had changed in 17 years. It was good old Sealdah. My daily train travel routine had stopped in 2002 when I moved to Bangalore.

Why is Sealdah important for budget travelers?

Do you want to go to the weaver’s paradise? I bring this up in almost every blog of mine. I strongly encourage you to go straight to Sealdah and board a train to Shantipur

Do you want to see temple architecture? Then board Katwa local train and get down in Ambika Kalna

Do you want to see Bankim Chandra Chatterji's house - the writer who wrote some great novels and the national song Vande Mataram? Just look for Naihati local

If you want to visit ISKCON, again use the Shantipur local and get down in Habibpur

If you want to enjoy a nice ferry ride, board a Barrackpore local, take an auto from station to Dhobi ghat and the boat ride will take you to Serampore

If you want to visit Darjeeling, you have your train from Sealdah.

Kolkata October to February are the ideal months to visit Kolkata and rural Bengal One can actually plan a trip  any time of the year as it has something or the other to offer in every season - just to avoid summer heat, it is highly recommended to visit during winter months.

Apart from suburban trains for North and South Kolkata, you can get around Kolkata, using public transport like CSTC, CTC and WBSTC buses, yellow ambassador taxis, Kolkata Metro and not to forget good old tramway. For short distances, you can avail auto rickshaws.

By now you must be confident to come to Kolkata and be on your own. If you are, go right ahead and book your tickets.

A Sweet Affair in Kolkata

If you have Kolkata in your list of must-visit cities, you are likely to have the following as your must-do activities here

Pandal hopping during Durga Puja

Visiting weaver’s paradise in Shantipur and Phulia

Board a tram or have a quick rickshaw ride

Visit Tagore’s abode Santiniketan 

Observe influence of British Architecture in Kolkata buildings

Experience some inner peace in Dakhineswar or Belur

Floating market having vegetable/ fruits in boats on a lake

Taste the spread of genuine Bengali cuisine 

Talking about food, how can one forget the key component of Bengali cuisine – Sweets!

Your one stop station for traditional Bengali sweets from the most reputed and oldest brands is Misti Hub.

I wanted to visit this place for quite some time. I learnt about it only this year. Now this is situated near gate number of 3 of Eco Park. Eco Park is a whole day affair because the stretch and rides can be really time consuming. I was in double mind if I should do both Eco Park and Misti Hub on the same day. Time has been a major issue all these months

On 8^th November I went near Karunamoyee (Salt Lake) for my mother’s standard medical checkup and to show her reports.

A Toto to local station (INR 10 per person), then a train to Bidhannagar (INR 5 per person), an auto to the hospital (INR 20 per person) and the plan was to visit Misti hub after checkup. The wait time was long and we used that time to explore the market around and to figure which buses go to Misti Hub. I checked online and I knew where it was however I was not sure about the bus numbers that ply in that area.

After our meeting with doctor concluded around 1 PM, we boarded a bus to Eco Park, Gate Number 3. My mother was a little reluctant because she did not like the idea of buying tickets just to visit a Sweets corner as we did not have the time to cover Eco Park that day (Rides was absolutely out of question). I assured her the hub was on the road, near gate number 3. I told with confidence as if I had visited the place earlier.

I was right.

The bus stopped right outside the hub. It was drizzling due to Bulbul effect. I was really happy this wonderful concept was proposed by HIDCO (Housing Infrastructure Development Corporation), its construction began in 2017 and became functional last year -Truly it is our city's pride.

Misti Hub - Exterior

Misti Hub is strategically located and it stands so majestically tall and wide on the road near Gate No 3 that no one can miss this stop, on their way to the Airport encouraging every tourist to grab some great Bengali sweets along with other memories of the trip.

It is only those brands like Balaram Mullick and Radharaman Mullick, K C Das, Nalini Chandra Das and Sons, Gupta Brothers, Hindustan Sweets that has served people of Bengal for decades and have established themselves as leading names in what they do – Serving sweets

I ordered a plate of Dhokla from Gupta Brothers. When I asked them what was their specialty? Abar Khabo came a quick response

We picked sweets from Nalini Chandra Das & Sons who keep Jal Bhara Sandesh in different flavors – Strawberry (INR 15) and butterscotch (INR 25). We picked both to relish at home. The cover says over 190 years. Phew!!

I was keen to have baked Sandesh however I could only see baked Kalakand. I dropped the idea as I like this particular sweet in its original soft state.

We tasted Kaju Barfi from Hindustan Sweets which was available in two sizes and costing INR 15 and INR 30 respectively.

The ambiance is quiet, people checking varieties available in different shops and busy eating, either standing right in front of the counter or near the table tops placed all over. 

The hub has enough parking spaces for its visitors.

So when you are here and you want to have Krishnagore’s Sarbhaja, Joynogor’s Moya, Shaktigarh’s Lyangcha, Burdwan’s Sitabhog,  Makha Sandesh, Mango flavored Sandesh, Cream Roll, Gokul Pithe, Jilapi  – all in one place, under one roof with lots of space around the building

If you are new to the city and unaware about the history of Bengal sweets, do not miss reading the write-ups readily available there

The Write-ups

Baro Maashe Tero Parbon

This was inaugurated just a year back, on July 2018. So if you have visited Kolkata before, I think you should plan another trip just to pacify your taste buds with traditional, fusion and experimental sweets, right here and capture this experience of having sweets from century old shops

Over 190 Years

I did not have the heart to click images inside Misti Hub, as I know there are tons of videos already available online including collaboration videos with celebrities – That actually kills the curiosity of future visitors, if I click the interiors, the shops, the sweets, the information desk, the layout – what remains for you to imagine then?

Enjoying Durga Puja In The Suburbs of Bengal

If you want to be part of the  festivities and rituals of Durga Puja  without experiencing the maddening crowd, this blog is for you.

Durga Puja is considered as one of the most anticipated Hindu festival. It is celebrated for five days, usually in the month of September-October every year.

Places like Bengal, Odisha, Bihar, Jharkhand and Tripura celebrate Durga Puja.

I am not the kind to visit Pandals during Durga Puja though it is huge craze for many in this state. I enjoy the quiet family time at home, doing my own thing. We can hear the sound of Dhaak and devotional songs from our home itself.

In Durga Puja Maha Ashtami is considered as the most important day of the festival. On that day people offer Pushpanjali (Flower offerings) in Durga Puja pandals. This Puja basically has a simple narrative. It is believed that during this time Goddess Durga comes to her father’s house for five days. Isn't that Cool? Very human - nothing divine.

This year Durga Puja was from 4th October till 8th October. Since my birthday was just one month prior to the Puja therefore I received quite a few T-shirts which I kept intact to wear during this festival. I even received cash (around Rs 2500) which I deposited in the bank. As I do not usually go outside my expenses are minimum and needs are very few. 

As usual I was just not interested to visit the pandals due to crowd that really scares me and makes me anxious but suddenly visiting a few pandals near my residence, clicking some of these pictures and writing first draft of a travel blog became a paid assignment.

Therefore, reluctantly I chose to wear one of the new dresses and set out to visit the pandals nearby. My mother wore a green soft Jamdaani (A collection sourced from Bengal Weavers and I am mighty proud of it as I have invested in that range).

We decided to visit a few pandals on 7th of October, more out of compulsion like any other routine job. It was the ninth day of Durga Puja. We boarded a Toto and visited the pandals in our locality - Barrackpore in North Kolkata.

Why do I need to write a blog about Durga Puja in Barrackpore when there are mind blowing, award winning themes and pandals in different parts of Kolkata? Why Barrackpore – I wondered? Moreover, why should this be a paid assignment?

It made perfect sense when I was explained that there are many tourists who want to visit Bengal during Durga Puja however they are mentally not equipped to handle the crowd and they are sort of clueless of the queue system – They mostly want to explore both – the ritual and the city, without the crowd.

Barrackpore is indeed a perfect place for that where people can enjoy Pandal hopping without facing too much crowd as compared to other parts of Kolkata.

One can quickly take a bus or auto ride and cover Sodepur, Agarpara, Ichapur, Palta to cover a few more theme based pandals.

We first went to see the Puja which took place in our own locality popularly called Durga Bari – It was a school building a few decades back, now it is rented out for weddings, birthday parties and spiritual gatherings. During Durga Puja, this place thrives with people. It has a huge land space in front of the building and a nice pond close to it. Where you can hear chants for Puja now, you get to hear Karate students screaming their mantras at other times.

My mother also watched Sandhi Puja here on one of these days. It has a special importance during Durga Puja. It is done at the time when Ashtami tithi ends and Navami tithi starts. The reason for Sandhi Puja is that it is believed that Goddess appeared during this time to kill demons. (I am not sure though, I have not met her personally ;)

The last day of Durga Puja is celebrated as Vijaya Dashami or Dussehra. It also marks the victory of good over evil powers. On this day the women of all the families visit their nearest pandals and offer sweets to Goddess Durga and also to her children asking her to come again next year (Abar Esho Maa).

People do get emotional on this day and even begin to view the goddess's face, as if in teary mode - actually it is a reflection of their own state of mind. Many quickly console themselves, as just a week from that day is Lakshmi Puja, a month later is Kali Puja and then Saraswati Puja - And ask 99% people from Bengal, by the time Saraswati Puja is celebrated, we are already counting months for the next Durga Puja and planning.

If you are a first time visitor to Bengal, you should quietly sit in a pandal and watch these rituals because Pandal hopping is not the only must-do thing here. If you are fortunate, you will see the Dhaaki (The ones who beat the Dhaak) dance during Aarti

The next pandal that we visited was Royal Park near Kalyani Highway where we took a few pictures and selfies with my mother. Royal Park is famous for investing a lot of efforts and execute innovative ideas in their pandals. We started walking from Royal Park towards our home. While walking back we witnessed the crowd growing. We quickly covered seeing a few more pandals, took pictures and had Prasad.

There were all different and unique designs in each and every pandals that we visited. There were pandals made of glass bangles, gunny bags, with a huge Buddha structure in front and many more inside the pandal. Here is one made of pieces of bricks near Agarpara

Theme - Bricks and Earth ware. Picture Credit: Admin

Finally, there was also one pandal with the concept of a bridge on river Thames. We saw this during the day and therefore missed the lighting. Others who saw this Pandal told me there were statues that moved which means they were all real people posing as residents of London, waving at the visitors.

While returning we had a little snack from a fast food shop near our house.

Now that is our weakness – Food!

During Durga Puja people not only wear new dresses (The privileged lot practically buy dresses  - day and night - for all six days – Panchami to Dashami) and go outside to watch the innovative decoration of the pandals (including whole night Pandal hopping) but also eat delicious food street, home-made, takeaway parcel, hotels – anything goes.

Now, as a family, that is our primary interest zone - Food. We are a family of foodies and love trying different cuisine. We had Mutton Biryani on Panchami itself followed by Fried Rice and Chilly Chicken on Mahashtami. One of the days being a Saturday, we had to consume vegetarian food – a family routine. 

Food Credit: The Lady of the House; Image Credit: Admin

Many people wonder that during an auspicious Puja why people in Bengal eat non-veg food etc. The reason behind this is simple - for us Maa Durga is a daughter who is coming home for a few days to visit her parents. What do we usually do when a daughter comes home – in normal circumstances? Offer fruits? No right?

That is precisely why for people in Bengal, Durga Puja is not just a Puja or a Rs 25000/- economy, its preparation practically runs for the whole year – It is a family affair, people working outside Bengal sacrifice other trips and save holidays to come home during Durga Puja, planning every minute of each of these days, tightly packed with Pandal Hopping, dining out, preparing for cultural programs – It is one big family thing celebrating life having different

meaning to different people.

My visit to the pandals during Durga Puja was very short – just for a day and yet pretty exciting and joyful to write this blog.

When I was given this assignment to visit pandals and write a blog I also wondered why was the assignment being given to “me” in particular?

For someone like me, in mid-twenties, the standard expectation is Pandal  hopping, street food, and standing in Queues for hours with “friends” or “cousins” – not immediate family. I am the odd one. I have always visited Pandals with parents only because for me Durga Puja means “Family time” just the way the daughter visits her home every year.

That’s the perspective I wanted to capture in my blog – that’s the narrative I want this blog to carry that - my folks at home are my great friends- while the whole world is connected on WA and FB, I am connected to my best friends in person.

Author Profile of theme

Glimpses of Korba

Surfing through Facebook groups I see an opportunity in a college that does not believe in degrees. It was a short assignment for roughly three weeks. I ping on Watsapp, get interviewed and few days later I am on a train to Bilaspur to manage a center running a month long summer camp for 11/12 years old girls

Off to Chattisgarh

The train was fully AC. I was traveling with a family who was returning from Gauhati. Their daughter had participated in Karate national championship there and won a bronze medal. How cool is that? 

Picture Courtesy: A Fellow Teacher

When I reach Bilaspur three hours late, I missed my connecting train to Korba. The family was kind enough to proactively guide me to the waiting room and inform me about the gates (No 3) where my cab is likely to come.

Image Credit: A Fellow Teacher 

The cab was arranged within half an hour and I started gathering inputs of the place from the driver.

Bilaspur Station - A Tidy Spot (Picture Courtesy: A Fellow Teacher)

Off to Korba     

It was a good two hour’s drive and I enjoyed every bit of it. I just did not feel any anxiety about the work I came here for. In fact this drive had a soothing effect on me

This was a CSR initiative operational in over twenty locations and I land here to manage this center. While I gathered memories of a life time and as I have not sought permission from the little ones I taught to publish their photographs in public forums, it will remain protected in my drives.

Brahma Kumari Center

I had to buy a pair of bathroom slippers and I had been using my roomie’s since the time I came here. There was car at our disposal which we could use for personal purchases. I quickly checked the place when the evening session was in progress on my way to the market. It was a quite place.

A local Park - Dashsk Pratik

I paid a quick visit to this local park that was situated within the premises of NTPC township and very much in the vicinity of our learning center. I was guided there by one of the stakeholders of the program to assess if a Fest can be organized for the children. 

We finally chose to execute the fair plan in the courtyard right in front of our hostel because we could stretch the duration if wanted to, jump to bed when we got tired of all the fun and music.

Silver Jubilee Park

On the last day, after children were handed over to their parents, three of us (Faculty) moved to the guest house from the hostel and decided to spend some time in the evening in Silver Jubilee Park. We could let our hair down as the program concluded really well, we were happy to return home the next day. The grass felt so good under our feet. 

The other two with me did not miss the Sea Saw and climbing 

The whole of Korba began to feel home for me, right from the first day and it was not just about the place but the people that makes the place worth while. The last day here just added to that built in value in my mind

The Korba Taj Mahal

We had dinner at the Indian Coffee House and we ordered non veg which we were not served at the center. 

We walked back to our guest house.

The next morning, our cab arrived sharp at 5.00 AM and our sandwiches were already handed over at the Guest house reception by Indian Coffee House

I had done my research and was hoping to visit Chitrakoot Falls if time permitted. Well, that has to be next time. 

Kolkata Diaries: Kumartuli

I have been away from Kolkata for over fifteen years. That is probably why everything about Kolkata seems beautiful to me – even the traffic, people’s strong opinions and laid back attitude. 

What pulls them apart is the  year-long preparation for the biggest five day festival – Durga Pujo. I never could find any parallel to that in any other state or country based on what I read and visited.

The dedication and commitment towards everything about Durga Pujo is not just job, work, livelihood, supply chain, a massive economy that matters to thousands of people across different strata of the society – The sponsors, the artisans, the local authorities and dozen other stakeholders – It is about being the focal point about people’s lives here.

This happens year after year, and the scale only seems to go up – the shopping, stalls, the trends, the offers, the travel plans of those who live outside West Bengal for work or study – revolve around this Pujo.

I have always had this desire to conduct Durga Pujo in my own house. While staying in 333 square feet area apartment, within a residential complex that has been organizing Pujo for 20 years; the idea is not just ambitious but pretty far-fetched.

I can, only if I have a small house constructed on a plot. The desire is so strong that I get pretty excited about Pujo, months before it is scheduled to begin. If goddess mother wills, may be some day this will be true and she will come home.

Last year my shopping for dresses was done by June. This year I was eager to visit Kumartuli (The potter’s locality) where the idols are made.

That is one whole process I was so curious to see firsthand. How artists create such beautiful pieces of work in a limited space is incredible to watch. The artists there have mastered the art of creating those figures in very restricted spaces. 

So in July, one Sunday, with a neighbor, equally insane like me to explore parts of Kolkata left home, around two in the afternoon post lunch aiming to visit Kumartuli and Shovabazaar launch

We boarded a Toto to bus stand (INR 10), then got into a bus destined for Esplanade and got down near Shovabazaar (INR 12). It is walking distance from Shovabazaar Metro station

The proficiency is not just in creating idol but space management because it is not just Maa Durga’s idol, her lion and Mahisasura at her feet, but also her children, Lakshmi, Saraswati, Karthik and Ganesh that had to be created.

Idols In The Making

You can see people working on the idols tirelessly and they are in various stages – someone working on a bunch of straws, one working on the clay or painting. Though when we went, painting had not started.

Getting The Right Mix Ready - Straws

Kolkata monsoons are unpredictable but it did not diffuse our energy. 

As we walked through the lanes, we hear people calling home to confirm that they have booked which means they have paid advance to the artisans for Maa Durga's idol, others still negotiating or asking to see more images of past  years. It was an amazing feeling. 

The Crux Of The Idol

Shopping for Durga Pujo dresses based on trend, for all five days  - is one thing and talking to different artisans to bring home mother's idol makes the rest of the shopping so trivial and useless.

The Structure

We had tea and biscuits, our standard routine after we watched the river and drizzle for some time, walked till Shovabazaar launch, enjoyed a boat ride from there to Howrah which was awesome. 

Foundation Material Getting Shape

We boarded a bus from Howrah bus stand, though we were planning to go to Serampore and take yet another ferry from there to reach our residential area. We discarded the idea as there will be too many breaks.

Shovabazar Launch

Just a few minutes back we were on a boat and went under the Howrah bridge, and then boarded bus that drove on the Howrah bridge - both views were worth remembering.

Kolkata Monsoon 

We were not the only two crazy ladies enjoying monsoons there. There were a couple of young photographers. We did not run for any shade when it was raining. We stood right there with an umbrella soaking the beauty of that place.

View of Howrah Bridge from Ferry (Shovabazar to Howrah)

From Howrah station we boarded a bus that goes directly to our residential area that went right on this bridge.

Howrah Bridge 

And I am hoping to go there again before Durga Puja to watch the transition and transformation from clay idols to the mother she becomes, for all of us

Howrah Station