Kolkata Diaries: Kumartuli

I have been away from Kolkata for over fifteen years. That is probably why everything about Kolkata seems beautiful to me – even the traffic, people’s strong opinions and laid back attitude. 

What pulls them apart is the  year-long preparation for the biggest five day festival – Durga Pujo. I never could find any parallel to that in any other state or country based on what I read and visited.

The dedication and commitment towards everything about Durga Pujo is not just job, work, livelihood, supply chain, a massive economy that matters to thousands of people across different strata of the society – The sponsors, the artisans, the local authorities and dozen other stakeholders – It is about being the focal point about people’s lives here.

This happens year after year, and the scale only seems to go up – the shopping, stalls, the trends, the offers, the travel plans of those who live outside West Bengal for work or study – revolve around this Pujo.

I have always had this desire to conduct Durga Pujo in my own house. While staying in 333 square feet area apartment, within a residential complex that has been organizing Pujo for 20 years; the idea is not just ambitious but pretty far-fetched.

I can, only if I have a small house constructed on a plot. The desire is so strong that I get pretty excited about Pujo, months before it is scheduled to begin. If goddess mother wills, may be some day this will be true and she will come home.

Last year my shopping for dresses was done by June. This year I was eager to visit Kumartuli (The potter’s locality) where the idols are made.

That is one whole process I was so curious to see firsthand. How artists create such beautiful pieces of work in a limited space is incredible to watch. The artists there have mastered the art of creating those figures in very restricted spaces. 

So in July, one Sunday, with a neighbor, equally insane like me to explore parts of Kolkata left home, around two in the afternoon post lunch aiming to visit Kumartuli and Shovabazaar launch

We boarded a Toto to bus stand (INR 10), then got into a bus destined for Esplanade and got down near Shovabazaar (INR 12). It is walking distance from Shovabazaar Metro station

The proficiency is not just in creating idol but space management because it is not just Maa Durga’s idol, her lion and Mahisasura at her feet, but also her children, Lakshmi, Saraswati, Karthik and Ganesh that had to be created.

Idols In The Making

You can see people working on the idols tirelessly and they are in various stages – someone working on a bunch of straws, one working on the clay or painting. Though when we went, painting had not started.

Getting The Right Mix Ready - Straws

Kolkata monsoons are unpredictable but it did not diffuse our energy. 

As we walked through the lanes, we hear people calling home to confirm that they have booked which means they have paid advance to the artisans for Maa Durga's idol, others still negotiating or asking to see more images of past  years. It was an amazing feeling. 

The Crux Of The Idol

Shopping for Durga Pujo dresses based on trend, for all five days  - is one thing and talking to different artisans to bring home mother's idol makes the rest of the shopping so trivial and useless.

The Structure

We had tea and biscuits, our standard routine after we watched the river and drizzle for some time, walked till Shovabazaar launch, enjoyed a boat ride from there to Howrah which was awesome. 

Foundation Material Getting Shape

We boarded a bus from Howrah bus stand, though we were planning to go to Serampore and take yet another ferry from there to reach our residential area. We discarded the idea as there will be too many breaks.

Shovabazar Launch

Just a few minutes back we were on a boat and went under the Howrah bridge, and then boarded bus that drove on the Howrah bridge - both views were worth remembering.

Kolkata Monsoon 

We were not the only two crazy ladies enjoying monsoons there. There were a couple of young photographers. We did not run for any shade when it was raining. We stood right there with an umbrella soaking the beauty of that place.

View of Howrah Bridge from Ferry (Shovabazar to Howrah)

From Howrah station we boarded a bus that goes directly to our residential area that went right on this bridge.

Howrah Bridge 

And I am hoping to go there again before Durga Puja to watch the transition and transformation from clay idols to the mother she becomes, for all of us

Howrah Station