A Leisurely Walk On A Cloudy Afternoon, In Kolkata

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If I add one more blog on my frequent pilgrim visit, even the Gods will be angry at me for not capturing or highlighting His other creations in Kolkata.

I and a friend just planned to do this trip to the city, one cloudy afternoon in July 2017.

As we live in the suburbs of North Kolkata, we need an Auto/ Toto to reach the local station for INR 10/-and the train fare to Sealdah Station is also INR 10.

Train fare for Bidhan Nagar/ Ultadanga (station before Sealdah) is INR 5 however the bus to Rabindra Sadan, we assumed will be crowded and we wanted to avoid the long walking distance till the bus stop and the stairs.

There are many buses from Sealdah via AJC Bose Road or Esplanade. So the options were better from Sealdah.

When we set out from home, like two chirpy teenagers (which we are definitely not and we got past that age decades back) we just wanted to visit Birla Planetarium to see the stars.

Just that on the way, we debated if we want to do a laid back leisurely walk in and around Victoria Memorial or behave like first bench school kids undergoing an education tour under the supervision of Geography teacher. Our forty plus self could not quiet identify with that role. Leisurely walk won.

We literally had no plan, except wander

As we entered Nandan, mentally ready to watch the movie that’s playing. As the month was July - the month we lost the heart throb of Kolkata – Shri Uttam Kumar, there was a film festival in progress showcasing his best movies. The other movie was Posto which I had already seen.

Nandan

There is a canteen in Nandan. We sipped tea as we clicked photographs

We covered these spots walking.

Victoria Memorial At A Distance

 

Victoria Memorial Within The Premises

For those of you interested in Birla Planetarium, book the show in the language you prefer and time slots indicate the medium of narration.

A Park Nearby

Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you have a story to share about a leisurely walk or if you are planning a visit, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost. 

More Than Just A Spiritual Center...

Winter mornings are the best thing of Kolkata. It is the most preferred season for many reasons – travel to the city of joy, short weekend trips from here, fairs, food and celebrations. My recent Instagram stories are all around #KolkataWinter #Besttimetotravel #CityofJoy

The Christmas experience in Park Street, various craft and hand loom exhibitions/ fairs in different parts of the city or sweets with liquid date Jaggery are all specialties of Kolkata winter.

Most of us who stay in Kolkata know Nicco Park, Science City, Alipore Zoo, Museum, Eco Park are all crowded during Christmas holidays.

So, my family planned a quiet visit to Belur Math yesterday.

A Toto to Barrackpore Chiriamore INR 10 per person

A Bus to Bally Khal INR 12 per person

A Bus to Belur Math INR 7 per person 

The Bally Khal Story

This really needs special mention here, particularly for first timers on budget travel.

Belur Math is just over two kilometers from Bally Khal which is like probably the next bus stop. That is why we hopped into a bus. I was not sure if it was a better idea to board a Toto as the driver would dilly dally that short distance hoping to pick other passengers. I was so wrong there. The bus was worse as it stopped roughly 14 times to pick passengers. 

Due to slow moving traffic, this approach to stop a bus anywhere and everywhere is routine exercise. Once you know that, your blood pressure goes normal and you attain nirvana.

Visiting Hours 

As we reached Belur Math after the visiting hours (6:30 AM to 12:00 PM), we had to wait till 3:30 PM for the gates to open again till 8:30 PM.

Exploring Around

We had a quick look around Vivekananda University which had a huge auditorium with some ongoing preparation for a gathering, Medha Bhavan, a unit for studies on Indian Heritage and one dedicated for Mathematics. 

We then went to Vivekanada Showroom which displayed Swamiji's life in seven parts. Next time I am there, I will take my notebook. Mobiles had to be switched so could not take notes and I could not remember so much stuff either. I am perfectly okay to spend another ten bucks for the ticket to be here for my notes.

Lunch/ Prasad

For those who are keen to have Prasad (Lunch) there in Belur Math, need to pick coupons between 8:30 AM to 11:00 AM and lunch is served at 12:00 PM.

We were no where in that area at that time so we munched spicy puffed rice (For INR 20, the quantity is too much to be consumed by one person), some fries made of sago grains which is again too much to eat though we just bought one packet for ten bucks, some liquor tea and had some chopped guava stirred with spices that was selling at INR 120 for a kilo.

Belur Museum

One of my favorite spots here is the Museum. As my mother was visiting the place after over five decades, as soon as the main gate opened exactly at 3:30 PM, we first headed towards the Museum. The tickets are still INR 5 per person

The miniature of every place Sri Ramakrishna, Holy Mother Sarada and Swami Vivekananda visited or stayed, the articles they used (Even Tooth powder container and safety pin), the letters they wrote, the clothes they wore, the furniture they had seriously can give anyone goosebumps just thinking that we are roughly two centuries apart and able to see them so close. 

It almost feels like they are around.

The Main Temple

We then head to the main temple, meditate for some time, do Japa - then walk to cover each memorial where earthly remains were consigned.

Celebrations Ahead

There were temporary pandals being setup for forthcoming celebrations of Holy Mother Sarada's birth anniversary. The program schedule was in display outside the main gate. 

The gardens with flowers of different colors is truly a photographer's delight. The crowd crazily posed to click dozen selfies and group pictures completely ignoring the "Photography Prohibited" board. 

The temporary blindness was from both parties and amusing - the ones who clicked were blind to read board and the authorities who were supposed to ensure adherence to rules, were blind to see the crowd clicking.

I did not click a single photograph - Yes, I am the only devotee that follows rules. God does not let me break rules in his place to minimize wrong doings in my account. My phone died long before I entered Belur Math. So did photography.

The Memorials

The last time I visited Belur Math a couple of years back, I missed seeing the memorials where the earthly remains were consigned of Swami Vivekananda, Sarada Devi and the first president of Belur Math, Swami Brahmananda. Now matured with age and information from different sources, visiting these memorials was in my priority list

The Dispensary

There is a charitable dispensary of the Math that treats patients for fever, cough and cold, stomach ache etc. I observed this only yesterday, not during my last visit, as I was wandering around munching fries and puffed rice - waiting for the main gate to open.

The Highlight Of The Day

I was supposed to visit Belur Math on my birthday 18th December. It was raining that day and hence we visited yesterday little knowing that we will be fortunate to be blessed by the president. 

We did not even have to wait in the Queue. Immediately after seeing the memorials, we were supposed to go out of the small gate to the store Pallimangal to purchase some incense sticks, when we saw a line thinning as people headed towards a building and it immediately struck me that Guru Darshan was in progress.

We literally threw our slippers and got in just in time to offer Pranam to Srimat Swami Smaranananda ji Maharaj, the current president of the order.

All that loitering for three hours, waiting for the Main Gate to open at 3.30 PM was worth it. 

After Darshan, as I stood outside the room watching Swamiji at a distance, I observed a man in late eighties, fingers in gloves trembling, sitting still, patiently letting each one of us offer our Pranam, selflessly on a cold winter evening - just for us, our well being, our solace, to put our minds to rest.

My eyes glistened and just then a person called out to collect the Program Schedule for 28th December. I picked one printed copy and walked out of the building, feeling blessed. 

Pallimangal, Integrated Rural Development

A friend had mentioned about this store recently and I wanted to check this out. I was pleasantly surprised at the range of product they have and reasonably priced. I picked two boxes of Sandal Incense sticks (50 in each box) for just INR 34/-

You have many grocery items like Phenyl, ghee, soap, honey and other items bags, purses, mats, etc. This is very different from the Book Store within the premises that has books and photographs. This one is an outlet for the produce made by a rural population.

This place takes care of both senses and soul. The view of the Ganges, the visuals of the garden, the collection of books, the lively crowd, the peace in the atmosphere, the synergy in the prayers makes this much more than just a spiritual center. 

As we left the premises of Belur Math, as the dusk dawned and the large screens installed there showed the proceedings taking place in the main building, the crowd seemed relaxed, settled, sitting on the grounds, the clicking subsided and I wondered, what next?

It is the peaceful moment and the mood that sets in with it that finally caught up with the crowd as the natural light faded and the environment was artificially lit. It is the connect to the tranquility that made most of the crowd let go of the noise they brought with them and finally receive what this place is supposed to offer the seeker - A slice of divinity!!

Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you have a story to share about a pilgrim or if you are planning a visit, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost. 

Now You Buy and Sell Floating..

It’s clean, and it is beautiful. It is colorful and it floats

Now this is the first one in India and third in Asia. We now have this very special market in Kolkata. We are the pioneers to bring this home first so that you need not fly to Thailand to experience this.

I read about it a little late actually, somewhere in April and it was launched in January this year. I am blogging about this market roughly eight months after I had been to that place because I wanted to visit the market again in the night before I capture the overall experience in words here.

The afternoon was really hot, the day we decided to explore this market. A train to Sealdah cost us INR 10, then a bus from 45 series to Patuli followed by an auto dropped us to Floating Market for INR 7.

I just loved the surroundings. There was hardly any crowd there at that time, as it was pretty hot. I am sure the morning rounds of purchase were done by then.

The market is roughly four hundred metres long, with over a hundred boats and over two hundred shops selling all sorts of food – Vegetables, fruits, tea, snack and many more. 

Before I went there, I thought the boats will be stationed near the border of the lake and the buyers will transact from the piece of land close to it. Well, that would not be exciting enough. You actually get to explore the market through the walkways on the water body itself, and you can reach any part of the market, any shop easily, walking on those.

We obviously did not go there to buy vegetables and come back in train. We just chilled, clicked photographs, sat in one of the boats to have tea and biscuits. The tea seller asked us to be back in the evening to see the light and the fountain.

The lake at Patuli in South Kolkata, after this transformation, can be a potential tourist spot. This floating market located in Baishnabghata Patuli Township near EM Bypass and remain for more than twelve hours and  there is absolutely no fees to enter this market.

The idea to establish this lake as a market area was primarily to create a revenue stream for the sellers who were displaced due to widening of EM Bypass.

So your next visit to Howrah Bridge or Vidyasagar Setu or Victoria Memorial may not quite assist in rehabilitating a population how your transactions in Floating Market sure will.

The prices are reasonable and produce was definitely fresh. The enthusiasm of the sellers and their latent pride to possess a shop there which is unique and one of its kind, is another thing you pick from there.

The lawlessness at Rabindra Sarobar on 13th November 2018, regardless of strict prohibitions/ initiatives from National Green Tribunal/ Law should forewarn us about other water bodies well in advance and our sensitivity quotient towards environment

Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you have a story to share about this market or any lake or if you are planning a visit, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost. 

My Personal Take On Puri

Some trips are planned well; others are destined while a few others happen due to ongoing deals by a flight operator

Being a Bengali, born and raised in Calcutta, Puri was often the most preferred and natural selection to visit during summer/ winter vacation, where you often bump into two three of your classmates. How can I resist the flight deal with slashed prices?

Having regaled my husband about all of my childhood vacations to Puri, which must be roughly over a couple of dozen times, the deal tempted him as well to know what exactly the charm was that this place held?

With baited breath our trip begins, anxious if cheap tickets actually let you land in your destination– well this one did on time. It was a fairly new aircraft with a decent and fresh meal served on board.

We touch down at Bhubaneshwar’s Biju Patnaik Airport around two in the afternoon. The helpful staff from Uber counter at the airport assisted us in booking an Uber from Bhubaneshwar to Puri, around 60 Kms away. It costs us roughly twelve hundred.

The highway is well built with not much of vehicular traffic - mostly two wheelers and cattle were observed. This was a welcome break from the clogged road of Bangalore. The countryside also looked pretty serene, with very little human habitation, that kind of raises doubts if the population in Orissa is relatively lesser than other states.

We preferred staying in Ramakrishna Mission on Kacheri Road instead of exploring hotels primarily for the food. We refrain from spicy food and I was not sure of any other places that might cater to our tastes twice a day. Ramakrishna Mission provided basic and clean accommodation along with food at a nominal cost of INR 450 per head per day.

Beach is walking distance from here. That’s a bonus. Alternatively you can hire a Tuk Tuk for INR 50.

We walked up to Swargadwar in the evening and while I was reliving my childhood memories it was completely new experience for my husband -The shrill honking of the autos and the calls from the myriad vendors. After some sweet hot tea we went along the narrow lanes uncovering things to shop.

Things to pick up here are – Kotki Sarees or Dress materials, Stoles, Shell Handicrafts. Orissa made Gamcha (towels). Do visit the handloom Boyonika for silk dupattas, Sarees and cotton bedcovers.

The next day we go to Puri Jagannath Temple, one of the major Dhams for the Hindus. (Non-Hindus are not allowed to enter the temple. I will update this blog when I know why). From Ramakrishna Mission we took a Tuk Tuk and the distance is only 2 kms. You can walk up if it’s not too warm.

As I remember from my childhood days as soon as you enter a 100 meters periphery of the temple there will be a number of “Pandas” chasing you to hire them for a seamless Darshan and unadulterated blessings from God. It used to be very difficult to dodge them. However this time around the numbers were very few and only one or two stopped us and when they saw our disinterest to engage with them, quietly walked off. I think this is the result of rapid growth of India, where these “pandas” have found more meaningful livelihoods.

Depositing our shoes and mobile phones outside the temple in a booth we went inside for the Darshan. It was quite seamless and if it’s a bit too crowded wait for 15-20 min and then go in again as the crowd thins very quickly.

There is some major renovation work going on, hence it was not possible to enter the “Grabagriha”, but concluded the Darshan from a bit far. The renovations are going to be on for a few more years.

After visiting Jagannath , don’t forget to pay visits to the other smaller temples around especially Lakshmi Temple and light a lamp. Again if vendors/priests are going to push their religious paraphernalia, just ignore.

Bhog is offered to Lord Jagannath quite a few times during the day and during that time the temple is closed for a short while. This Bhog is available for sale outside in the “bhog” market and you can buy them. We chose not to as we recall in one of our trips the entire family suffered from Dysentry the day we had consumed Bhog.

As you exit, if you are in mood for some hot beverage, tea is readily available. Have some tea and check out the various shops just opposite the temple for some authentic local shopping. Things to buy here are Kansa utensils, Local handloom bed sheets and off course “Purir Lathi”. Do buy some cotton wicks being sold outside the temple. The women selling those are really poor.

The one thing constant everyday was a dip in the blue waters of the Bay of Bengal. From that day when I was three and witnessed the sea for the first time, till today it is one love that has been constant. Although I have visited some of the best beaches in the world, Puri beach with its multitude of people, still holds a special place in my heart.

So the daily morning splashing in the waters every day was something that cannot be missed. If you want to get into the deeper waters, hire a “nulia” the local version of the “Baywatch” folks. You will enjoy the ride! No one can be spotted in beach wear here, but mostly nighties and sarees and over sized under wears. But who cares!! Everybody has fun. Best time to visit is October to February. Otherwise it is extremely hot.

The other half a day trip to do while in Puri is the local sightseeing - We hired a Tuk Tuk for INR 500 and he covered the following places. (INR 100 additionally to take us to Totapuri’s Ashram )

He first takes us to Lord Jagannath’s Masir Bari, where during Rath yatra every year the lord travels to and resided for seven days. The place has lost much of its olden day’s grandeur and upkeep. The priests are almost begging for money. The place is of immense architectural value but sadly the footfalls are very less.

We were then taken to Narendra Tank or Pisir Bari which is average and you can choose to skip.

We then covered Jatia Baba’s Ashram and Samadhi.

Next we moved to Sonar Gouranga in Chakrathirtha road which is a historic temple, but upkeep can be better.

After this we head towards Totapuri’s Ashram which is a bit far from Puri town. Totapuri was the spiritual guru of 19^th century mystic Ramakrishna. He spent the last 40 years of his life in this mountain dune and post his demise his Samadhi is here at this very place. This place is maintained pretty well, my guess is somehow the Ram Krishna Mission is involved in the upkeep of this place.

We then head to the Sankarcharya Mutt in Puri. This is very well maintained and they also provide basic lodgings to pilgrims. This place also houses a 2500 years old Bed that was supposedly used by Adi Shankarcharya.

Finally we visit Karar Ashram. The last gift Steve Jobs gave to his family and friends was “The Autobiography of a Yogi” by Yogananda Paramhasa. Yogananda’s guru Sri Yukteshwar Maharaj’s mortal remains rests here at this very place – Karar Ashram.

The place has fallen on hard times, but so are many other historic places in India today.

Tomorrow can be another beautiful morning promising better times ahead.

  

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Photographs: Will be uploaded soon

Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you have a story to share about Puri or if you are planning a visit, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost. 

Where The Soul And Senses Are At War..

The sky walk in Dakhineshwar is functional and that is just one part of the story. The other story is not quite as bright.

Those who have visited Dakhineshwar will agree that this pilgrim holds the same appeal for devotees and tourists alike.

In 1875, a miniature replica of Dakhineshwar was constructed in Barrackpore. This is equally beautiful and situated very close to Rani Rashmoni Ghat. This place is popularly called Annapurna Mandir

This plot on which the temple stands, a hundred feet tall, was purchased by Mathur’s (Rani Rashmoni’s son in law) eldest son and therefore, this place is locally referred as the temple built and maintained by Rani Rashmoni’s daughter Jagadamba Devi

Diwali is still in the air. During Kali Puja and Diwali, obviously all Kali temples are crowded. I and my mother decided to visit a Kali temple yesterday. I searched for the images of Annapurna Mandir in Google and was amazed to see the striking similarity between the two – Annapurna Mandir and Dakhineshwar.

I made a mental note of the address (which I soon forgot), visiting time – when the temple remains open, asked a neighbor for directions and got started from home after some rest post lunch.

Frankly, once we boarded the bus, I had no idea what to tell the bus conductor as I did not know the bus stop. My mother asked the lady seated next to her, who said in excited tones, that it is in Monirampore.

I almost believed, God is guiding us only to realize later we ended up in a completely different Kali Temple, which was beautiful however not remotely close to Dakhineshwar. People were busy collecting Prasad.

Kali Temple, Monirampore

My school and college were all around that area, so it is a pure pleasure for me to hang out there, anytime. It is a peace trip, and this place is so good that I even mentioned this in one of my short stories.

We saw a couple of pandals based on different themes. It was all worthwhile but then this was not exactly what we had set out for. In fact I had raised my mother’s anticipation so much that I felt guilty about it.

As my phone charge dropped, I called my nephew to quickly Google and give me the exact address and directions to Annapurna Mandir. Within minutes, he gave clear instructions

• a)     On B.T.Road, go to Talpukur
• b)    Ask for Rani Rashmoni Ghat

So a Toto dropped us in Barrackpore Chiriamore, another auto to Gandhi More. We crossed the road to take another Toto to Annapurana Mandir. As we found none, we just walked and as we walked, our anticipation and expectations soared.

I almost crossed the temple without noticing it because I think there was just one street light and it was quite dark. I was expecting crowd, lights, people’s voices, Dhaak, music – While I was glad to finally find the temple, something inside me snapped. The whole courtyard was so dark.

I did not miss the crowd, lights, voices or music really. I am perfectly alright with the tranquil atmosphere. I was saddened by the state of maintenance of this beautiful structure – It was so similar to Dakhineswar and in such a poor state.

We were very fortunate because we saw mother at this distance (Three arms perhaps). As we stepped down the stairs, a person stopped us to give us bhog. It was all worthwhile. I asked permission and was allowed to click this for the world to see how blissful she is. It was just one more family and us.

I will update this blog soon, after I reach out to a few influential people regarding its maintenance. I will soon go there with my sister during the day and click better photographs to highlight the state of walls and floor before I start a campaign.

I had no plans of going there today. It is only because my mother proposed to visit Kali temple that I thought of covering this place - Annaparna Mandir.

Now the question is - was it my mother’s idea alone or was it the divine mother’s idea - that I visit his place and see not just the temple, but its state now. Then, with a burning soul fighting with my senses, I use some words, some wisdom, some women power, some world power, some wit to get the authorities go for some really long guilt trip.

Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you are with us in this initiative or if you are planning a visit here, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost. This is our bit to save this beautiful structure, so close home.

Kolkata's Shyama Ma

This time of the year is awesome in Kolkata. 

After Durga Puja for five days in mid October followed by Lakshmi Puja in every household five days later, every Bengali is eagerly waiting for Kali Puja

It is not humid at all now. The temperature is mild and this season change reminds you that another year is almost gone. 

Today is Kali Puja, one of the biggest festival of Bengal - also referred as Shyama Puja. In most pandals, you will hear songs played in the name of Goddess. This genre of music is popularly called Shyama Sangeet. Most of us dismiss worldly affairs and often have momentary realization of the futility of our pursuits when we hear those timeless, mesmerizing numbers Amar Sadh Na Mitilo or Sokoli tomori ichchha by Pannalal Bhattacharya.

So during this part of the year, while you reconcile gains, pains, pleasures and losses, for the more sensitive kind, it is time to ponder - What have we got done? After all, the name Kali comes from the Sanskrit word Kaal which means time.How did we fill our time this year?

Apart from the hundreds of pandals in West Bengal, some of the famous Kali baari are listed here

Firingi Kaali Baari, Bow Bazaar

Anyone who saw Bengal super star Uttam Kumar’s famous Antony Firingi will know about why this temple is name Firingi (Foreign). This is over 500 years old temple dedicated to Goddess Kali and gets its name because of Hensman Anthony who was of Portuguese origin, a folk poet and famous for his competence in Kavigaan.

He converted to Hinduism and was a great devotee of Kali.

Hangseshwari Temple, Bansberia       

The main deity in this temple is Goddess Hangseshwari, another form and manifestation of Goddess Kali

Kali Temple, Dakshineshwar

This temple is situated beside the Hooghly river. Bhavatarini is main deity here which another form and aspect of Goddess Kali – One who liberates her devotees from worldly affairs. The courtyard has long queues of visitors coming from different parts of the country. The main temple is nine-spired. You cannot miss twelve shrines of Shiva and Radha Krishna temple. The Hindu saint Ramakrishna spent a significant part of his life here. This was Rani Rashmoni’s initiative and you can see a shrine there dedicated to her. There are regular ferry services from here to Belur

Sideshwari Kali Mata Mandir, Barrackpore

#Annapurna #Mountain of Rice

Siddeshwari Kali Mandir, Habibpur, Midnapore

#Terracota

In Our Complex

Saturday, 10 November 2018

My Personal Take On Puri

Some trips are planned well; others are destined while a few others happen due to ongoing deals by a flight operator

Being a Bengali, born and raised in Calcutta, Puri was often the most preferred and natural selection to visit during summer/ winter vacation, where you often bump into two three of your classmates. How can I resist the flight deal with slashed prices?

Having regaled my husband about all of my childhood vacations to Puri, which must be roughly over a couple of dozen times, the deal tempted him as well to know what exactly the charm was that this place held?

With baited breath our trip begins, anxious if cheap tickets actually let you land in your destination– well this one did on time. It was a fairly new aircraft with a decent and fresh meal served on board.

We touch down at Bhubaneshwar’s Biju Patnaik Airport around two in the afternoon. The helpful staff from Uber counter at the airport assisted us in booking an Uber from Bhubaneshwar to Puri, around 60 Kms away. It costs us roughly twelve hundred.

The highway is well built with not much of vehicular traffic - mostly two wheelers and cattle were observed. This was a welcome break from the clogged road of Bangalore. The countryside also looked pretty serene, with very little human habitation, that kind of raises doubts if the population in Orissa is relatively lesser than other states.

We preferred staying in Ramakrishna Mission on Kacheri Road instead of exploring hotels primarily for the food. We refrain from spicy food and I was not sure of any other places that might cater to our tastes twice a day. Ramakrishna Mission provided basic and clean accommodation along with food at a nominal cost of INR 450 per head per day.

Beach is walking distance from here. That’s a bonus. Alternatively you can hire a Tuk Tuk for INR 50.

We walked up to Swargadwar in the evening and while I was reliving my childhood memories it was completely new experience for my husband -The shrill honking of the autos and the calls from the myriad vendors. After some sweet hot tea we went along the narrow lanes uncovering things to shop.

Things to pick up here are – Kotki Sarees or Dress materials, Stoles, Shell Handicrafts. Orissa made Gamcha (towels). Do visit the handloom Boyonika for silk dupattas, Sarees and cotton bedcovers.

The next day we go to Puri Jagannath Temple, one of the major Dhamsfor the Hindus. (Non-Hindus are not allowed to enter the temple. I will update this blog when I know why). From Ramakrishna Mission we took a Tuk Tuk and the distance is only 2 kms. You can walk up if it’s not too warm.

As I remember from my childhood days as soon as you enter a 100 meters periphery of the temple there will be a number of “Pandas”chasing you to hire them for a seamless Darshan and unadulterated blessings from God. It used to be very difficult to dodge them. However this time around the numbers were very few and only one or two stopped us and when they saw our disinterest to engage with them, quietly walked off. I think this is the result of rapid growth of India, where these “pandas” have found more meaningful livelihoods.

Depositing our shoes and mobile phones outside the temple in a booth we went inside for the Darshan. It was quite seamless and if it’s a bit too crowded wait for 15-20 min and then go in again as the crowd thins very quickly.

There is some major renovation work going on, hence it was not possible to enter the “Grabagriha”, but concluded the Darshan from a bit far. The renovations are going to be on for a few more years.

After visiting Jagannath , don’t forget to pay visits to the other smaller temples around especially Lakshmi Temple and light a lamp. Again if vendors/priests are going to push their religious paraphernalia, just ignore.

Bhog is offered to Lord Jagannath quite a few times during the day and during that time the temple is closed for a short while. This Bhog is available for sale outside in the “bhog” market and you can buy them. We chose not to as we recall in one of our trips the entire family suffered from Dysentry the day we had consumed Bhog.

As you exit, if you are in mood for some hot beverage, tea is readily available. Have some tea and check out the various shops just opposite the temple for some authentic local shopping. Things to buy here areKansa utensils, Local handloom bed sheets and off course “Purir Lathi”. Do buy some cotton wicks being sold outside the temple. The women selling those are really poor.

The one thing constant everyday was a dip in the blue waters of the Bay of Bengal. From that day when I was three and witnessed the sea for the first time, till today it is one love that has been constant. Although I have visited some of the best beaches in the world, Puri beach with its multitude of people, still holds a special place in my heart.

So the daily morning splashing in the waters every day was something that cannot be missed. If you want to get into the deeper waters, hire a“nulia” the local version of the “Baywatch” folks. You will enjoy the ride! No one can be spotted in beach wear here, but mostly nighties and sarees and over sized under wears. But who cares!! Everybody has fun. Best time to visit is October to February. Otherwise it is extremely hot.

The other half a day trip to do while in Puri is the local sightseeing - We hired a Tuk Tuk for INR 500 and he covered the following places. (INR 100 additionally to take us to Totapuri’s Ashram )

He first takes us to Lord Jagannath’s Masir Bari, where during Rath yatraevery year the lord travels to and resided for seven days. The place has lost much of its olden day’s grandeur and upkeep. The priests are almost begging for money. The place is of immense architectural value but sadly the footfalls are very less.

We were then taken to Narendra Tank or Pisir Bari which is average and you can choose to skip.

We then covered Jatia Baba’s Ashram and Samadhi.

Next we moved to Sonar Gouranga in Chakrathirtha road which is a historic temple, but upkeep can be better.

After this we head towards Totapuri’s Ashram which is a bit far from Puri town. Totapuri was the spiritual guru of 19^th century mystic Ramakrishna. He spent the last 40 years of his life in this mountain dune and post his demise his Samadhi is here at this very place. This place is maintained pretty well, my guess is somehow the Ram Krishna Mission is involved in the upkeep of this place.

We then head to the Sankarcharya Mutt in Puri. This is very well maintained and they also provide basic lodgings to pilgrims. This place also houses a 2500 years old Bed that was supposedly used by Adi Shankarcharya.

Finally we visit Karar Ashram. The last gift Steve Jobs gave to his family and friends was “The Autobiography of a Yogi” by Yogananda Paramhasa. Yogananda’s guru Sri Yukteshwar Maharaj’s mortal remains rests here at this very place – Karar Ashram.

The place has fallen on hard times, but so are many other historic places in India today.

Tomorrow can be another beautiful morning promising better times ahead.

  

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Photographs: Will be uploaded soon

Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you have a story to share about Puri or if you are planning a visit, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost. 

Friday, 9 November 2018

Where The Soul And Senses Are At War..

The sky walk in Dakhineshwar is functional and that is just one part of the story. The other story is not quite as bright.

Those who have visited Dakhineshwar will agree that this pilgrim holds the same appeal for devotees and tourists alike.

In 1875, a miniature replica of Dakhineshwar was constructed in Barrackpore. This is equally beautiful and situated very close to Rani Rashmoni Ghat. This place is popularly called Annapurna Mandir

This plot on which the temple stands, a hundred feet tall, was purchased by Mathur’s (Rani Rashmoni’s son in law) eldest son and therefore, this place is locally referred as the temple built and maintained by Rani Rashmoni’s daughter Jagadamba Devi

Diwali is still in the air. During Kali Puja and Diwali, obviously all Kali temples are crowded. I and my mother decided to visit a Kali temple yesterday. I searched for the images of Annapurna Mandir in Google and was amazed to see the striking similarity between the two – Annapurna Mandir and Dakhineshwar.

I made a mental note of the address (which I soon forgot), visiting time – when the temple remains open, asked a neighbor for directions and got started from home after some rest post lunch.

Frankly, once we boarded the bus, I had no idea what to tell the bus conductor as I did not know the bus stop. My mother asked the lady seated next to her, who said in excited tones, that it is in Monirampore.

I almost believed, God is guiding us only to realize later we ended up in a completely different Kali Temple, which was beautiful however not remotely close to Dakhineshwar. People were busy collecting Prasad.

My school and college were all around that area, so it is a pure pleasure for me to hang out there, anytime. It is a peace trip, and this place is so good that I even mentioned this in one of my story stories.

We saw a couple of pandals based on different themes. It was all worthwhile but then this was not exactly what we had set out for. In fact I had raised my mother’s anticipation so much that I felt guilty about it.

As my phone charge dropped, I called my nephew to quickly Google and give me the exact address and directions to Annapurna Mandir. Within minutes, he gave clear instructions

• a)     On B.T.Road, go to Talpukur
• b)    Ask for Rani Rashmoni Ghat

So a Toto dropped us in Barrackpore Chiriamore, another auto to Gandhi More. We crossed the road to take another Toto to Annapurana Mandir. As we found none, we just walked and as we walked, our anticipation and expectations soared.

I almost crossed the temple without noticing it because I think there was just one street light and it was quite dark. I was expecting crowd, lights, people’s voices, Dhaak, music – While I was glad to finally find the temple, something inside me snapped. The whole courtyard was so dark.

I did not miss the crowd, lights, voices or music really. I am perfectly alright with the tranquil atmosphere. I was saddened by the state of maintenance of this beautiful structure – It was so similar to Dakhineswar and in such a poor state.

We were very fortunate because we saw mother at this distance (Three arms perhaps). As we stepped down the stairs, a person stopped us to give us bhog. It was all worthwhile. I asked permission and was allowed to click this for the world to see how blissful she is. It was just one more family and us. 

I will update this blog soon, after I reach out to a few influential people regarding its maintenance. I will soon go there with my sister during the day and click better photographs to highlight the state of walls and floor before I start a campaign.

I had no plans of going there today. It is only because my mother proposed to visit Kalitemple that I thought of covering this place - Annaparna Mandir.

Now the question is - was it my mother’s idea alone or was it the divine mother’s idea - that I visit his place and see not just the temple, but its state now. Then, with a burning soul fighting with my senses, I use some words, some wisdom, some women power, some world power, some wit to get the authorities go for some really long guilt trip.

Photograph: Editing in process. Will be updated soon.

Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you want to share about any Kali Temple or if you are planning a visit here, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost.