Some trips are planned well; others are destined while a few
others happen due to ongoing deals by a flight operator
Being a Bengali, born and raised in Calcutta, Puri was often the
most preferred and natural selection to visit during summer/ winter vacation,
where you often bump into two three of your classmates. How can I resist the flight
deal with slashed prices?
Having regaled my husband about all of my childhood vacations to
Puri, which must be roughly over a couple of dozen times, the deal tempted him
as well to know what exactly the charm was that this place held?
With baited breath our trip begins, anxious if cheap tickets
actually let you land in your destination– well this one did on time. It was a fairly
new aircraft with a decent and fresh meal served on board.
We touch down at Bhubaneshwar’s Biju Patnaik Airport around two
in the afternoon. The helpful staff from Uber counter at the airport assisted us
in booking an Uber from Bhubaneshwar to Puri, around 60 Kms away. It costs us
roughly twelve hundred.
The highway is well built with not much of vehicular traffic - mostly
two wheelers and cattle were observed. This was a welcome break from the
clogged road of Bangalore. The countryside also looked pretty serene, with very
little human habitation, that kind of raises doubts if the population in Orissa
is relatively lesser than other states.
We preferred staying in Ramakrishna Mission on Kacheri Road instead
of exploring hotels primarily for the food. We refrain from spicy food and I
was not sure of any other places that might cater to our tastes twice a day. Ramakrishna
Mission provided basic and clean accommodation along with food at a nominal
cost of INR 450 per head per day.
Beach is walking distance from here. That’s a bonus. Alternatively
you can hire a Tuk Tuk for INR 50.
We walked up to Swargadwar in the evening and while I was
reliving my childhood memories it was completely new experience for my husband
-The shrill honking of the autos and the calls from the myriad vendors. After
some sweet hot tea we went along the narrow lanes uncovering things to shop.
Things to pick up here are – Kotki Sarees or Dress materials,
Stoles, Shell Handicrafts. Orissa made Gamcha (towels). Do visit the handloom
Boyonika for silk dupattas, Sarees and cotton bedcovers.
The next day we go to Puri Jagannath Temple, one of the major
Dhams for the Hindus. (Non-Hindus are not allowed to enter the temple. I will
update this blog when I know why). From Ramakrishna Mission we took a Tuk Tuk
and the distance is only 2 kms. You can walk up if it’s not too warm.
As I remember from my childhood days as soon as you enter a 100
meters periphery of the temple there will be a number of “Pandas” chasing you
to hire them for a seamless Darshan and unadulterated blessings from God. It
used to be very difficult to dodge them. However this time around the numbers
were very few and only one or two stopped us and when they saw our disinterest
to engage with them, quietly walked off. I think this is the result of rapid
growth of India, where these “pandas” have found more meaningful livelihoods.
Depositing our shoes and mobile phones outside the temple in a
booth we went inside for the Darshan. It was quite seamless and if it’s a bit
too crowded wait for 15-20 min and then go in again as the crowd thins very
quickly.
There is some major renovation work going on, hence it was not
possible to enter the “Grabagriha”, but concluded the Darshan from a bit far.
The renovations are going to be on for a few more years.
After visiting Jagannath , don’t forget to pay visits to the
other smaller temples around especially Lakshmi Temple and light a lamp. Again if
vendors/priests are going to push their religious paraphernalia, just ignore.
Bhog is offered to Lord Jagannath quite a few times during the
day and during that time the temple is closed for a short while. This Bhog is
available for sale outside in the “bhog” market and you can buy them. We chose
not to as we recall in one of our trips the entire family suffered from
Dysentry the day we had consumed Bhog.
As you exit, if you are in mood for some hot beverage, tea is
readily available. Have some tea and check out the various shops just opposite
the temple for some authentic local shopping. Things to buy here are Kansa
utensils, Local handloom bed sheets and off course “Purir Lathi”. Do buy some
cotton wicks being sold outside the temple. The women selling those are really
poor.
The one thing constant everyday was a dip in the blue waters of
the Bay of Bengal. From that day when I was three and witnessed the sea for the
first time, till today it is one love that has been constant. Although I have
visited some of the best beaches in the world, Puri beach with its multitude of
people, still holds a special place in my heart.
So the daily morning splashing in the waters every day was
something that cannot be missed. If you want to get into the deeper waters,
hire a “nulia” the local version of the “Baywatch” folks. You will enjoy the
ride! No one can be spotted in beach wear here, but mostly nighties and sarees
and over sized under wears. But who cares!! Everybody has fun. Best time to
visit is October to February. Otherwise it is extremely hot.
The other half a day trip to do while in Puri is the local sightseeing
- We hired a Tuk Tuk for INR 500 and he covered the following places. (INR 100
additionally to take us to Totapuri’s Ashram )
He first takes us to Lord Jagannath’s Masir Bari, where during
Rath yatra every year the lord travels to and resided for seven days. The place
has lost much of its olden day’s grandeur and upkeep. The priests are almost
begging for money. The place is of immense architectural value but sadly the
footfalls are very less.
We were then taken to Narendra Tank or Pisir Bari which is
average and you can choose to skip.
We then covered Jatia Baba’s Ashram and Samadhi.
Next we moved to Sonar Gouranga in Chakrathirtha road which is a
historic temple, but upkeep can be better.
After this we head towards Totapuri’s Ashram which is a bit far
from Puri town. Totapuri was the spiritual guru of 19th century
mystic Ramakrishna. He spent the last 40 years of his life in this mountain
dune and post his demise his Samadhi is here at this very place. This place is
maintained pretty well, my guess is somehow the Ram Krishna Mission is involved
in the upkeep of this place.
We then head to the Sankarcharya Mutt in Puri. This is very well
maintained and they also provide basic lodgings to pilgrims. This place also
houses a 2500 years old Bed that was supposedly used by Adi Shankarcharya.
Finally we visit Karar Ashram. The last gift Steve Jobs gave to
his family and friends was “The Autobiography of a Yogi” by Yogananda
Paramhasa. Yogananda’s guru Sri Yukteshwar Maharaj’s mortal remains rests here
at this very place – Karar Ashram.
The place has fallen on hard times, but so are many other
historic places in India today.
Tomorrow can be another beautiful morning promising better times
ahead.
Photographs: Will be uploaded soon
Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you have a story to share about Puri or if you are planning a visit, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost.
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