More Of Temple Architecture In Bengal

The first part of the trip is here

We then headed towards other temples in the group. 

We crossed the roofless brick build Ras Mancha which, when illuminated looks spectacular. During Kalna Porjoton Utsab which is organized every winter, the entire temple complex is decorated with lights and the Ras Mancha is key highlight that evening.

Ras Manch

Lalaji Mandir

This is the oldest in group here. This brick built panchavimsati ratna temple was erected in 1739. It is situated in a closed compound. The natamandapa is in front of the temple and the temple inside is known as Girigovardhana temple.  This temple is  also decorated with rich terracotta ornamentation.

Standing in front of a Structure that is 280 years old

We were advised by the custodian here to see the 108 Narayan Shila placed in the same premises.

Narayan Shilas

Pancharatna Temple

These atchala brick built temples are of varying size standing in a row on low platforms. These are collectively and popularly known as Pancharatna temples which were built in 19^th century AD

Pancharatna Temple

Krishnachandraji Temple

This  magnificient brick built panchabimsati-ratna temple. This temples comes with an elongated chala type verandah in front with three-arched entrances.  The boards say it was constructed in 1751 – 55 AD. Its facades are also embellished with  beautiful Terracotta ornamentation.

The Calm Atmosphere Beckons..

Vijay Vaidyanath Temple

This brick build atchala temple raised on high platform is having a sanctum cella fronted by a verandah with triple arched entrances. The frontal façade is decorated with variety of terracotta plaques

The View From The Temple Verandah

We covered Ram Sita Mandir and walked a few minutes to Shyam Sundar Mandir. There were a few singing devotional songs which definitely added to our happy mood.

How to reach:

If you board a local train from Howrah or Sealdah, you need to get down in Ambika Kalna. By road, this temple town can be accessed from Krishnanagar, Katwa, Bandel, Pandua, Boinchi, Memari and Bardhaman

Ambika Kalna, popularly called just Kalna is part of Bardhamanr district of West Bengal, however it is near the border with Nadia and Hooghly District.

Other two famous pilgrims close to Kalna are Nabadwip, the abode of Sri Chaitanya and Mayapur, famous for the centre of ISKCON.

We will go there again to cover the rest of Kalna's Temple architecture - most probably in the last Saturday of the Bengali Month of Baisakh (May 2019) when there is special puja in Debi Bhabani's temple, popularized by Sage Bhaba Pagla

Pathuria Mahal Ghat which is used as a Ferry Ghat

Siddeshwari Temple that houses Goddess Ambika, built by the King of Bardhaman, Chitra Sen in 1740

250 years old Anantabasudev Mandir in Shyamrai Para that was renovated by Maharaj Bahktipromode Puri Goswami, roughly 60 years back that is now taken care by his relatives, mostly nephews and nieces

The oldest Buddhist temple in Bara Mitra Para, approximately four decades old which is looked after by a small Buddhist community.

And the train ride to Kalna, will continue a few more times. As I had a senior with me, I kept it limited to just a few temples this time. 

I am not sure if I can wait till May 2019. I might just board the same local train next month with a larger group.

Intricate Terracota Ornamentation In Bengal

I finally set my equation with Mahadev right today. Shivji has been playing games for the past couple of weeks.

Each time I planned a visit to Ambika Kalna, I ended up exploring some other place. First time I covered Halisohor and then Riverside Ramkrishna Mission, last Sunday

Today, we left at around 7:50 AM to board the Katwa local. We paid INR 10/- to Toto to reach the local railway station.

The train tickets cost us INR 15 each for Ambika Kalna. I was actually in a dilemma if I should buy tickets for Bishnupriya Halt (INR 25/-) so that we could cover Nabadwip first and then Kalna. I discarded the idea as it will be too hectic. I am glad we chose only Kalna as this place has quite a few places to cover.

The local train was ten minutes late and after we reached Kalna, we just walked out of the station, took a Toto to our first spot – Nava Kailash

It was probably written on our face, I guess that we were tourists here. So the Toto driver asked if we will be interested to see other pilgrim spots and he gave a long list. He quoted INR 300 and then dropped it to INR 250.

I wanted to cover one or two spots first and see if we had stamina for the rest. I had senior with me and had to be mindful of that first.

About Kalna

It is a small town located on the west bank of the Bhagirathi. The temples built their by the Maharajas of Bardhaman still stands tall as a testimony of Kalna’s flourishing and glorious past.

To be able to deep dive into the history of this place, which is perfect for a short one day tour, you are just a decision away.

You can board a Katwa local either from Howrah or Sealdah and reach Ambika Kalna

Nava Kailash Temple / 108 Shiv Mandirs

This was built by Maharaja Teja Chandra Bahadur in 1809. These brick temples are constructed in two circles.

The outer circle has 74 temples and the inner circle has 34. The temples had alternate white marble and black stone shivlingas in the outer circle and only white shivalingas in the inner round. The temples symbolically represent beads in a rosary.

Nava Kailash

All of them are Aat-Chala means eight-sloped roofed temples.

I noticed the structure could use some more care from the authorities however the lawns and the flower arrangements that separated the two circles were very well maintained.

74  Temples In the Outer Circle and 34 In the Inner Circle

We dropped some donation in the box before we left the premises hoping it will help in its maintenance. We cross the road and enter a huge high walled complex to see some wonderful and intricate terracotta work on temples.

Well Maintained Lawns

First we see Pratapeshwar Temple.

The terracotta themes on the walls had many stories to tell – regular life, Hindu epic, life of Chaitanya and glimpses of Durga and Ravana too.

Pratapeshwar Temple

Here are some closer shots for a better view of the neat terracotta work.

Terracota Work On The Walls

Rest of the journey will be covered in the next blog here

When I Missed A Local Train..

I knew some local trains were cancelled from 4^th to 18^th February plying from Howrah and Sealdah. That did not stop the plan.

This is the second time we were planning to visit Ambika Kalna. The last time, we ended up exploring Halisohor. We wanted to board the Howrah Katwa local that reaches Serampore at 8.28 AM OR Seoraphuli at 8.32 AM

I was ready by 7:00 AM but my friend wasn’t and we could leave home only at 7:55 AM. 

With a bus to Dhobi Ghat (INR 8/-), boat ride to Serampore Ghat (INR 6/-) holding a life jacket (I did not notice it in my earlier rides) – it is common sense that we cannot make it on time.

We really wanted IST to be Indian Stretchable Time today for selfish reasons.

To add to the misery, I got down in one bus stop and she opted to get down in the next one – consequently we lost touch as she did not know that I had not carried my phone.

The crux of the story – I reached Serampore station at 8.42 AM and happy to note the train had left on time. I could have taken the next train to Ambika Kalna from Sheoraphuli roughly two hours later – I chose not to for two reasons.

Let me be very honest here why I had no regrets that I missed the train.

First, I actually wanted to take my mother to this place because it is a pilgrim and in the past, we as a family had enjoyed our trip to Kotilingeshwar in Kolar District, Karnataka. Having seen the images, I knew she would enjoy this trip just as much.

Since today is Saraswati Puja, I was sure I cannot coax her for an outing today.

The second reason was I had not carried my phone. This has been the general practice for short trips - If a friend is with me using a phone, that is enough. I do not bring mine. But then, I lost my friend already and she must be looking for me in the station. 

I loved the morning Ferry ride – I am up for it any time of the day. Once I returned back to Dhobi Ghat, I walked till 7 Riverside road to Ramkrishna Vivekananda Mission and Math.

I normally see boys playing on the ground and we have to walk adjacent to the playground to reach the main temple. On the right hand side of the ground, we can see Usha Himmatsangha Chatranivas – a student lodge and on the left side of the ground is Ramkrishna Vivekananda Mission Vidyabhavan.

Today being Saraswati Puja most of the boys, in their Dhotis and Kurtas were getting ready to be there in the temple and obviously missing from the playground.

From outside the temple, the view of the Ganges is mesmerizing. It wasn’t crowded at all and there was hardly any noise. I noticed some boys outside the temple, some running to Goddess to place their books and be blessed with more knowledge.

The puja had started. I sat near the idol for some time and facing Sri Ramkrishna, concluded chanting my Japa mantras.

I boarded a bus from Cantonment Board, and headed home, making mental notes of what I saw on the way – Cantonment Board Office on the left hand side, followed by Sainik Auditorium  on the right. A little further away you can see St Bartholomew’s Cathedral.

So some trips are not destined to happen as you plan and some happen as if they were destined, in unpredictable circumstances.

Photographs will be uploaded soon, once I visit this place again with a mobile or camera.  

Visiting Mamuni's Home

As part of an NGO that creates awareness on Dementia, and being its founding member I had conceptualized a few programs in the alternate living zone.

One of them was to celebrate birthdays – not in a self-indulgent manner but to brighten the day a few more people who are not as fortunate as most of us are – a visit to an orphanage for birthdays or a visit to an old age home for anniversaries.

So in October 2014, when a friend of mine wanted to spend some quality time in an orphanage on her birthday, I was excited to be part of that trip. She spoke to the Founder of a home in North Kolkata. We set out in her car that morning. My friend was the generous one here who did not let me share expenses of our transport costs (Drivers are expensive)

My friend picked some pens and chocolates for the kids from the local shop near the Home. 

As Durga Puja was nearing, some local residents approached us asking for donation for the local pandal as soon as we parked our car. This annoyed my friend as we were just visitors in that locality. She gave him a mouthful. He then silently retreated without argument. I sort of felt bad for that guy – He probably never imagined someone who arrives in a car can lose temper for just twenty thirty bucks.

I was in no mood to lecture or sermonize my friend because mental evolution is a different thing altogether – it needs a different level of perception and sensitivity.  For all you know he was just testing our generosity as he probably knew we were heading towards the orphanage and assumed - we have a large heart.

She is probably right – why should we pay, if we do not belong here? If I chose to donate, that would go against my friend’s rationale. We had two options - bigheartedness and petty mindedness. What we choose to practice reflect who we are. Enough said.

Knowing she is another year older, knowing we were about to meet orphans who are not as privileged as we are and knowing we will be visiting a Church in Bandel, immediately after exploring the orphanage and meeting the kids – ideally the state of mind should have been different – a little selfless, a little more generous with time, generous with appreciation, generous with compliments and generous with a few rupees. 

But then, that’s a different journey – mostly inward.

We visited a 37 year old conventional home headed by a dedicated person who was at the helm of affairs, for close to four decades. After an hour’s chat with the founder, we saw the entire place that spread over many acres, escorted by a young girl Mamuni who lived there and it is her pride and perspectives that made the entire narrative so different.

She showed us the property that had homes for over 50 children built on a self-sustaining model with a few farms, a bakery, greenery all around, ponds full of fishes and plan for a school. 

She made us meet a few kids who were practicing for a program in the evening. She mentioned there was an old age home nearby. That calls for another visit.

She wanted to fulfill her father’s dream by studying nursing. She addresses the founder as her father.

On our way back we visited Bandel Church. That’s another story again.

All that I remember about this trip is that  young lad who left crest fallen, obviously insulted by my friend's outburst and the young girl who felt eternal pride in showing us her home.

A little learning that day that will remain etched in my memory - was what you feel matters much more than what you do - for others.

A Town By The Ganges

Sunday morning.

A friend from my neighborhood knocks our door around six in the morning and when my mother told I was still in bed, she just walked into my bedroom behind my mother who came to wake me up.

What did she want this early in the morning?

It was lets_go_somewhere mood for her. 

I was wide awake now. I told her to give me one hour to be ready (Pranayam, House Cleaning, Bath, Prayers, Lunch in one hour was absolutely impossible - If I asked for more time, she would just leave alone - I know her) She proposed seeing 108 Shiv Mandirs in Kalna. I did not think much. I just agreed to prevent her from going solo.

When she left my bedside allowing me to get ready, my mother reminded me that our main electricity switch board had to be taken care and the concerned person will come that morning. I did not call my friend, did not get up from bed either and was hoping this board thing gets taken care before I leave. (Within one hour again was next to impossible)

Around 10:30 AM she calls me to check if I was ready - I explained the situation and begged for time. I tried to rationalize Kalna trip either ways was ruled out because of local train timings. I tried to sell her the idea of going to Khirai, after Panskura in Howrah area to see Bengal's valley of flowers. 

She was already ready by 10:30 AM. I was the royal culprit here. We finally left home at 1:30 PM and by that time, the switched board was taken care. 

Khirai had to be dropped too because we guessed it will take at least three hours to reach there. I suggested Halisohor. She was game.

So we set out to explore Halisohor in North Kolkata, a town by the holy Ganges river

We took a bus to Naihati (INR 17/-). The person seated next to my friend was going to the same place to her daughter's house. We checked with her what options we had to go to Halisohor from Naihati - Train, Auto and Bus

We boarded Bus No 85 to reach Halisohor (INR 9/-). Now this is not a small place and we did not what to tell the bus conductor. By train we both knew Halisohor was next to Naihati. Auto would cost INR 20/-

We told Ramprasad Bhite and bought our bus tickets - The birthplace of revered saint Ram Prasad Sen (A TV serial started a few weeks back on his life). His bhakti poems are popularly called Ramprasadi in Bengal sung mainly addressing goddess Kali.

When we reached the destined bus stop we spoke to an auto driver to show us the local spots. He quoted INR 200 and then dropped the price down to INR 150.

We opted to cover the nearby spots walking. On our way to Ramprasad Bhite, we saw Jora Shib Mandir

I always have a sinking feeling when I see structures like these that belongs to our rich heritage are not maintained as it should be - Jora Shib Mandir

The gate was open. We got in and noticed this stone inscription that says this was inaugurated on 25th February 1999 and we stand there approximately after twenty years.

What Does It Take To Maintain This Place? First of all - An honest intent!

When we reached Ramprasad Bhite, we learnt that it will open at 3:00 PM. We still had half an hour. We explored the premises. There were many visitors waiting there.

The Quiet Atmosphere Is The First Thing That You Will Observe.

There is a water body within the premises

The Entrance - Ramprasad Bhite

Here is the big thing about the place. We know what we need to see, but we had no clue to how to go to those places. It is the people and local vendors of Halisohor who helped us complete this trip without any hassle.

Water Body In Ramprasad Bhite

We walked back to the main road, spent  some time near Ramprasad's ghat (River bank). We walked past the park on the main road wanting to cover it last as the gate will open only at 4 PM. 

We saw a Terrakota temple on our way back to Ramprasad Bhite which again looked neglected. We took a different walking route past Halisohor Municipality building.

Terrakota Temple

We saw some road construction in progress, with bricks being arranged. So I am hoping, soon this place will have developed roads.

Road Construction In Progress - And The Structure Still In Ruins

On our way back we picked some choco biscuits and by the time we reached Ramprasad Bhite, the Kali temple was opened. Photography is not allowed inside the temple. We entered the huge hall and sat outside the inner door letting devotees who intended to offer their prayers, sit in the inner space.

We thought, only people who had prayers to offer were allowed inside the temple, practically at one arm distance from Goddess Kali.  Our assumptions were broken by the authorities who asked us to go inside and sit. We spent some five or ten minutes and headed back to the Park on the main road just beside Ganges

Craig Park Bengali Year 1344

Our tea time was in the park. Fortunately it was open much before 4 PM.

We Bought Tea And Home Made Cookies From Local Vendor And Sipped  In Craig Park Watching Ganges

The beautiful views from the park got me thinking - I should have come here with my family too.

Soaking Sun In The Park

The park had swings and other facilities for children. We just sat in the stone benches and enjoyed the tranquility of the place, vast horizons and I kept planning another trip to cover the other places - Rashmoni Temple and her birthplace, Rathtala Mandir in Halisohor. We just did not feel like moving out from here.

Merging The Two Worlds

The toto asked for INR 20 to take us to Rani Rashmoni's birth place. If we went by bus, we had to get down in Bagmode and then take a Toto. As we both had plans to return, we mutually decided to keep this pending for our next trip.

As We Descended The Steps

We boarded a bus from Halisohor to our locality (INR 20/-) We planned to quickly visit Spencers that opened recently for some grocery shopping. While what we had in our minds are these images.

Ideal For A Long Walk

We noticed solar panel supported lights in the park which means there is probably hope for the structures and ruins too in near future. Halisohor authorities is likely not going to ignore the rich history and the stories these structures tell to a traveler or a visitor.

Solar Panel Supported Lights. 

With that hope, we left this beautiful town by the Ganges and some fantastic memories of the people here who went to the extent  of telling us how to go and how much to spend to save our money.

That is what makes a place worth a dozen visits - Its people.

Kolkata's Connect With Subhas

Just a few days back I had been to Teghoria to visit my aunt who was hospitalized after a mild stroke.

A bus to Barasat (INR 11) and another bus to Teghoria (INR 14) – As she was in Critical care unit the visiting hour was limited to just 30 minutes. With others in the queue, I could see her just for a few minutes.

On my way back home, I noticed a fair – Subhas Mela near Madhyamgram Chowmatha. I always have a spark of joy when I see Fairs. When I was in Kerala we attended a fair because we had time before boarding our train. We attended one in Pondicherry. Now we have Kolkata Book Fair going on. During Saraswati Puja we are likely to have one more in our locality. 

I made a mental note that the last date for Subhas Mela (Mela means fair in Bengali) is 6th February. Subhas Chandra Bose's birthday being on 23rd January, this fair starts around that time.

So I chose this weekend to visit the Fair.

The Stalls

It was not over crowded. Immediately after I got in, I noticed the food stalls selling sweets and fries. It had mountains of Jalebis, Groundnuts, Goja etc. I chose to look around first before we eat or pack something from here.

There was a huge range of crockery in more than one stall and most of the transparent cups, which is my personal favorite, cost just INR 30.

It was a fair and I was just hoping to see some handmade local stuff. However to my surprise, the fair had stalls promoting school admissions, cooperative banks or selling kitchen chimneys, Sarees, home furniture, artificial jewelry, Carpets, beautiful sandals made out of Kalamkari cloth.

It had the usual joy rides including the merry – go –round on a giant wheel.

We spent some time exploring the stalls. We just picked up a ladle, a basket and a door mat for my sister. We picked some sweets for ourselves.

Cultural Program

This fair goes on for nearly a week however I am not aware if there is social program everyday. On the day I visited, there were some artistes on the stage. We saw some Karate specialists followed by other programs. We could hear the announcements as we wandered through the stalls.

You  get Goja for INR 30 for 200 Gms which is usually INR 50 for 180 Gms in local malls.

The Food Mountains

The Colorful Stalls

This Hints At The Mood Of The Place - That is the Ghoogni Counter

There were stalls with different items in that particular stall for just INR 15 and INR 30.

Everything Here Was INR 15 Only - Most Of The Items At least

The Karate kids were up on stage. We just happened to watch them for a couple of minutes.

The Seats Were All Occupied - That Is The Standing Crowd

Somehow I do not have the patience to watch programs in a Fair.  

So It Was Not Just Local Stuff..Some Other Names Too

This is unique about Kolkata winters - a series of fairs. So which one do I cover next - The ongoing book fair?