In The Forest, Where Sundari Lives..

It was a nice and pleasant October morning and it was Mahasaptami

Around 7:30 AM, we reached 4 Tottee Lane, the pickup point suggested by our tour operator Tour de Sundarbans for our two days one night trip to the mangrove forests, Sundarbans.

Our Kolkata trip this time was super packed and super planned.

The operator concluded basic formalities to check bookings, payments and collected pending dues. This was followed by a nice round of hot ginger black tea. We were then asked to board the Tempo Traveler parked just a few meters away.

Our fellow travelers included a couple of families, tourists from Manchester and France. Our tour guide MJ joined us here too, right from the office.

At about 8.20 AM we were cruising through Red Road and then Ma Flyover leaving Kolkata.

We were served Veg Sandwich, freshly prepared at the Backpackers office at Tottee lane and Bananas, on the Tempo Travel.

After three hour's drive we reached the land’s end. What I mean by that is motor able road ends here at Gadkhali. From here we boarded a Ferry that took two hours and dropped us to our Eco-resort at Satjelia Village.

After we were shown into our mud cottages we got an hour’s time to freshen up and then have lunch. The lunch was prepared by the village women who work at the resort.  It was simple and delicious with lot of home cooked flavors. Chilly was used minimally and that worked perfectly for us. 

After lunch we went on the Satjelia Village tour on foot. It’s a very neat and clean village with a lot of friendly and helpful villagers. We also did a walk through the embankments that were put up by villagers to keep out salt water from entering the village, ruining crops and flooding houses. If its low tide, then the breathing roots of the Sundari tree (Heritiera littoralis) can be seen closely during this walk.

On a voyage of discovery...

A hand boat was waiting for us at the Ghat. After the walk tour, we were on that boat to spend a few hours, touring the back waters. Let me leave to your imagination how that would be in the evening twilight – you got it right. Words are not enough to describe moments like these.

The place is not overcrowded with boats and tourists, hence it gives a very tranquil mood and also feels like the entire place is yours!

We did a hand boat ride for almost two hours and got back to the resort for some hot Beguni and ginger tea.

What followed was the highlight of the day - amazing live folk music performance by village folks under a small “Chauni”, surrounded by hurricane lamps. After roughly two hours of live music, it was time for Dinner.

Although a night safari was arranged on a hand boat – we skipped it since it was a long day and the next day we had to start early - at six in the morning. From our group, some tourists wanted to experience the night safari. They returned by 10:30 PM. So, I think it is doable. For us, the music and dinner had fairly lasting impact.

The next morning after a quick shower we were at the meeting point at 6 AM. After a steaming cup of tea, we got on to our Ferry that will be our home for the next twelve hours. The boats are fitted with basic toilets, so that answers what is on your mind, considering the duration of the tour.

The ferry goes and picks up our chefs and supplies from a nearby village island and then starts the day's sail. We were served breakfast on board.

A government appointed guide boarded the ferry from Sajnekhali reserve. He would be our guide along with MJ for the entire day. Government appointed guides are a must on each Ferry.  Also for foreign tourists, there is a permit that our guide MJ secured for the ones who traveled with us.

“The clearest way into the Universe is through a forest wilderness.”
John Muir

The boat meanders through the thickets of Sundarbans and takes us inside into the uninhabited reserve forests. We spotted many wildlife - Birds, Monitor Lizard and Crocodile.

Yes - fresh pug marks of Royal Bengal tigers too.

Tranquility in motion..

Lunch was served on board while the cruise continued. We got off at two watch towers to take a look around these islands (Controlled environment) - there are paths with ten feet nets and you cannot wander outside these walkways.

The Government appointed guide was very helpful and friendly.

Some Trivia:

Sundarbans is the largest Mangrove Forest in the world. 60% of it is in Bangladesh and 40% in India. Total area under India is 4000 Sq kms approximately

There are over hundred islands that fall under India and 50-60% of these islands are inhabited by humans

As per last census Royal Bengal Tiger count was 106 (including cubs). They move around freely between India and Bangladesh side, so difficult to give exact count.

The ordinary and the extra ordinary..

Please read Bengali version here

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Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you have a story to share about Sundarbans or if you are planning a visit, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost. This is our bit for the welfare of Sundarbans

Five Days, After Durga Puja..

We wait the whole year for Durga Puja. Well, all of us wait for festivals - to celebrate, enjoy and have fun. What is so special about Durga Puja?

For most Calcuttans, Bengali people and Bongs, whatever you call us - It is not really about devotion. It is about our love for the daughter who is coming home to visit her parents.

On Chaturthi (13th October), around ten thirty in the night I told my mother "Maa Eshe geche". This year was the 20th year of celebrating Durga Puja in our residential complex. I wore a Kurti and harem pant over my night dress to quickly go and see if she reached well. Human connection. That is all it is. 

I had been to Bangalore for a month in August and returned to Kolkata on 6th September. Since that day, I and mom have been cleaning house which is a ritual as if Maa Durga is coming home and not in some Pandal.

On Dasami (19th October), it kills you to see Maa's face just before the immersion.

Maa Durga before Visarjan (Immersion) in our complex

On the fifth day after Dasami, is Kojagori Lokhi Pujo (Goddess of Wealth and Prosperity). For me personally, it is continuation of Puja celebrations. So when I look at her face on Dasami, I calm myself and rest my mind waiting for the first full moon (Purnima)

I normally do not fast. This time I did because every year it is only my mother who fasts and I eat/ taste everything as usual. 

When we do Alpana (Art on the floor) with chalk or paste of powdered rice, we also draw Maa lokhi's feet coming into the house to symbolize prosperity entering each household

Fruits, Narkel Nadu (grated coconut with jaggery or sugar), Til Nadu, Chire Moa (Beaten rice with Jaggery) Luchi, Suji, Payesh, Khichdi, Alur Dum and the list continues as offerings.

After the Puja is conducted, we read pachali/ Brotokotha which is also read every Thursday in Bengali homes  - the story of how Maa Lokhi, took the trouble to relieve the world from suffering. By the way there is particular tune in which this is recited and it is this tune that brings the wanderer home.

While I get some good photographs from family and friends, we count days for Maa Kali Puja


Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you have a story to share about Kolkata Lokhi Puja or if you are planning a visit around this time, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost.

Those Five Days In Kolkata, Every Year...

People have different reasons to travel and do short trips for a week or two. It is probably to reach a particular destination, experience the thrill of a journey, explore the location, enjoy a festival, associate with fellow travelers and create many pleasant memories.

For some travelers, it is really not that simple. Travel is just a break from routine without any other agenda. What is the point in having a break and keeping yourself busier than a normal work day?

Travel is not just about rejuvenation for them or connecting with time and space. It is not about feeling carefree or spending time with family. It is definitely not about people. It is very sad if a traveler intends to connect to a place only without making any effort to connect with its people, their own people or the city culture.

How can you possibly feel rejuvenated if you have a hectic schedule to cover all tourist spots, eat all kind of foods and shop in all the malls and markets that your friends have recommended? That way you create photo albums and talking material, not memories you want to return to.

Many travelers do not quite understand that travel is less about pace and more about pause.

So next time, do not let the green and red dots (notifications) in Watsapp and face book that gives large doses of dopamine remote control your travel plans. It almost feels that you are traveling to please the world.

A couple of my friends wanted to visit Kolkata during Durga Puja this year. Somehow they could not make it. Now forewarning for those who want to visit this city during this festival – Do not keep any other plans because if you are not hopping puja mandaps to see the depth of creativity and themes in different pandals, it is undoubtedly your loss.

If you do not spend some time in one Mandap to listen to Dhaak, watch Dhunachi naach, Sandhi Pujo, Arati, stand in the queue for bhog and enjoy the cultural programs, eat egg roll and Biryani then the experience is definitely incomplete.

This one is for my friends who missed that opportunity this year to experience Durga Puja.

Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you have a story to share about Kolkata Durga Puja or if you are planning a visit around this time, our team will be glad to assist you with a no-obligation itinerary at no cost.

The Strongest Connect With People Is Through This..

Food is an integral part of our travel stories.

When I went to US for the first time 13 years back, I craved for some spicy chicken. I was there for two months to attend a few process related trainings. One colleague from US team who was also part of that training brought some nice home-made chicken, customized for me. I must have mentioned how badly I missed Indian food that a Mexican woman tries to pacify my taste buds.

When I lived alone in Bangalore for over a decade, I missed Bengali food very much. I love the entire range of South Indian food – Dosa, Idli, Rasam, Sambar, Upma and all kind of rice - Lemon rice, Mango rice, Tomato rice,  however whenever I taste Bengali food, it took care of not just my appetite or hunger but also mildly satisfied the inner, deep seated need to be home. Food has that effect on you – the lollipop instead of ice cream, butter milk instead of curd, the food at least if not the place.

Today it is different, I can cook Bengali food. My mother stays with me and so there is a lot of variety always. We both try a lot of recipes from what we see in the cookery channels.

I still visit Bangalore. My last visit was in August this year that lasted for a month. During my one month stay between 5th August to 4th September here is the constant supply from my neighbors almost on a daily basis. I feel blessed for all the love.

Find my other blogs on food here and here

I have an intern from our virtual team manage the twitter account for Chalte Chalte India and he is so mesmerized by international travel that he often forgets the purpose of Chalte Chalte India and that is to travel India and explore its beauty first. We will streamline that soon. So you may choose to follow this twitter handle @virgoreceive and then unfollow to teach him a lesson so that he gets his strategy and fundamentals right.

Write to chaltechalteindia@gmail.com if you have a story to share about exploring food while traveling.